1966 wont start when hot

Car turns right over when cold, runs great. Turn it off after it has warmed up and I am stranded for 15-30 minutes until she cools down. New Starter and Solenoid already installed.  

I had this same problem with the standard (vintage type) battery installed. When its hot the starter draws more amperage and the battery would barely turn it over. I changed to an Optima battery and have not had the problem since. Many of these vintage batteries are just barely adequate.  

Couple things come to mind.......your coil may open when it's hot.  I have an 82 F360 that had the very same problem many moons ago and the problem was eliminated when I installed and aluminum spacer between the carb and the intake manifold.  

Is this the famous slow crank when hot. Fords are real bad about battery connections and cables. I had this until I stepped up to bigger cables and added an extra ground from the engine to the fender. Also use good connecters.  

Your timing could cause this if it is too advanced.  

Eliminate the battery question by testing it with a load tester. I just replaced a starter and cables on a car that started great cold but stop somewhere for 5 minutes and it would not start, just barely turn over if at all. Wait 15-20 minutes and it would start right up. It's embarrassing to admit but I even have a battery load tester but thought I "knew" what the problem was. When I tested the battery it revealed a bad cell under load. New battery solve my mystery. Good luck  

This maybe helpful but you have to try this when its hot. Remove distributor side of coil connection when car is hot and see how it cranks. If it cranks fast then the timing is to far advanced. To correct this problem there are various solutions. One of course is to retard the initial timing. The other is a bit more work. You can install a point less ford distributor, MSD starter saver, and one of there ignitions ( I built my own which is simple and converts the upside down signal to a usable signal). When you have curved the distributor right  you can add more initial timing (34 degrees at about 3000 rpm total centrifugal and initial, do not connect vacuum advance for this reading). If this is done right the engine will be more responsive. I have 14 degrees of initial timing with 10 degrees "starter retard"
Steve  

Looks like you have lots of sage advice.  I'd check the battery first, as recommended.  I don't know where you live and how hot the temp's are but . . . I had a similar issue (believe it or not).  I was running an accel ultra torque starter with "the big three" wires and a new optima battery.  The engine is "built" and has 12.5 /1 compression.  My solution was to go to a PMGR mini starter (it has more torque and is much smaller)and an easy install. It gets enough air flow to keep it cool.  I don't know it that's a solution (after you just sprung for a new starter ) but if nothing else  . . . It's a great upgrade!  I Haven't been stranded since.  If you need more info after the battery please advise!