Convertible top problem

I checked the local Ford dealer and the part is discontinued.  

I seem to have the common problem of my convertible top able to go down ok but will barely rise back up to close. Have been digesting lots of online data to tackle this problem but for starters I can't figure out how to gain access to the motor area. Did you ever discover how to remove the back seat? Someone said something about buttons to release the seats but I have no buttons. Any help out there?
thanks  

ryan...

pushing BACKwards on the seat bottoms then pulling up is what is usually done to release the seat bottoms..  they will then lift up and pull out..

there are usually bolts in holding the seat backs to the body  at the base of the seat back..

i have NOT pulled the seats out of one of these yet...


mustang man usually drops in early week day mornings and drops some proper answers..  

I worked on my '01 convertible yesterday and in my buddy's words that helped me, "Screw it, lets go from the trunk." The pump motor is located directly behind the seat in the middle, but if you go through the trunk all you have to remove is the cover thats holding on by plastic screws (which are simple body screws found at any auto parts store.)
Once you remove the plastic screws and the cover you'll see the pump motor. It is held in place by rubber placements and the reservoir  has a rubber stopper. Now I had to break those rubber placements but those can be replaced by 5/16 nuts and bolts and the stopper will be hard to put back in, but stoppers can be found at auto parts stores as well.
Once removed you can see inside the reservoir. My problem was that I had very low fluid in the motor and that's why it took forever for the top to come back up. If you'll need to add fluid use Mercon.
Now we took the top off a dawn dishwasher liquid and put it on the mercon bottle which helped pour the liquid in more efficiently.
It will take a while and mind you my buddy was inside the trunk doing the job, but after a few trials and error I was able to lift and bring down the top by control quickly, and it feels like the first day I bought the car...good luck.
(P.S. If the top still goes down fast and up partially its not the motor, or the arms, its a fluid issue...which saves you at least $200.00...)  

Now the question is, why was it low on fluid?  You must have a leak someplace (hose or cylinder), and you probably did a temporary fix, until the fluid leaks out again.  

Sorry for not jumping in sooner, I've been slammed here at the magazine(s)...

To release the rear seat bottom cushion there are two plastic spring loaded buttons about eight inches inboard from the seat end/side. You really need to pull up on the seat material to see them (stick your head way down in the foot well too). Simply push the white plastic buttons in with a screwdriver and the seat will release.

The motor bushings are usually easier to get out if you soak them in penetrating spray like WD-40. Now that you've bolted it in you'll probably hear it/feel it more too. I'd make some rubber washers out of heater hose or something to isolate it.

I agree with Trojan as well. You most likely have a leak. The common areas are hose fittings and cylinder end seals, both of which usually make a puddle under the rear seat or side trim panels. This is why I suggest you still pull the rear seat bottom and look for fluid on the floor.

HTH...
Mark
.  
Mark Houlahan
Technical Editor for:
-Modified Mustangs & Fords Magazine
-Mustang Monthly Magazine

1965 FFR Roadster 427W/TKO-600 5-speed
1966 Mustang 289-4V/C4 Auto
1968 Mustang 4.6L Three-Valve/5R55S Auto
1990 Mustang 306/AOD
2001 Ranger SuperCab 4x4 3.0L V-6/5R44E Auto
2002 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0L V-6/5R55 Auto

I was having all the same problems as mentioned above. So I started with check underneath the back seat ( by lifting up the front lip of the seat and pushing each button to unclip the seat) for any sign of fluid which I did not find any. I removed the back rest of the rear seat which was held in at the bottom with two 10mm bolts one on each side of the back rest. The top of the back rest has two tabs that have to slide up about 2.5" to remove the seat.

Right in behind the removed back rest was a clean no sign of fluid hydraulic pump. I removed the black rubber plug and checked the fluid level with a tooth pick which barely had any fluid on it. * DO NOT DROP THE TOOTH PICK IN THE MOTOR.

I added almost3/8 oof a quart of Mercron. I replaced the black plug which was easier to push in with a clean dry shop towel. I pushed all 4 blask rubber tabs back into there mounting positions.

The moment of truth. I started the vehicle unlatched the front of the top. lowered the top which was alot smoother and less violent. I pushed the button to raise it and it started of slow but raised completly. I lowered it and raised it a few times. And its good as used. works just fine right now.

My concern is where did the fluid go? there is no odor or visible fluid markes under the seat, or padding, there wasnt even any sign of leaks around the motor or lines that I could see.

The entire process took about 1 hour. I hope this helps some of you guys and gals that do not want to DIY. But I would place this on a 2 start difficulty rating out of 5. Very easy just be patient!  

is there any way to remove the rubber placements(the ones that hold pump down in the horizontal position) without having to cut them? I removed my back seats and was all ready to check the fluid level in the reservoir but had trouble removing those rubber silencers!  

optique:
is there any way to remove the rubber placements(the ones that hold pump down in the horizontal position) without having to cut them? I removed my back seats and was all ready to check the fluid level in the reservoir but had trouble removing those rubber silencers!

as far as i can recall.    just gently pulling up on the entire pump will free them from the floor.. but leave them in the pump base..

you might want to find one of the lever forked tools for pulling door panel pins.. but you probably won't need it..  

I agree with Wayne. I spray a little wd  40 on them and it was no trouble getting them out. Used a little fluid when sliding them back into place  

I found on my '01 that I could remove the wire harness in front of the rubber plug on the motor to add fluid. Fluid could be added with a syringe.    

New and not sure I am putting this in the right place, but maybe someone will see it and understand my issue. 2004 Mustang Convertible 40th Ann. Edition, the top motor works fine, but when letting it down it jambs up against the window and you have to stop it before the window breaks. It is either not folding right, wrong frame has been installed or wrong top. The top looks to be correct. Help!!!  

Which window is it hitting/interferring with? Side glass or quarter windows?

Does the top go down and stow flat if the windows are lowered first? Double check your owner's manual, but I think Ford even states to lower the side glass first as a cautionary measure.

HTH...
Mark
.  
Mark Houlahan
Technical Editor for:
-Modified Mustangs & Fords Magazine
-Mustang Monthly Magazine

1965 FFR Roadster 427W/TKO-600 5-speed
1966 Mustang 289-4V/C4 Auto
1968 Mustang 4.6L Three-Valve/5R55S Auto
1990 Mustang 306/AOD
2001 Ranger SuperCab 4x4 3.0L V-6/5R44E Auto
2002 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0L V-6/5R55 Auto