I have a 67 convertible, C-code.  It is bored .030 over, fully rebuilt about 5000 miles ago.  I have a C4 tran behind it.  The car is restored and is a blast to drive (although parking with manual steering is tough).

however...
1) I want more horsepower.  I am not an 'engine' guy even though I restored the car from nothing. I had a friend rebuild it for me.  I assembled the car so I am comfortable with everything on it.  I would like some tips to get more power, it just does not give me a kick in the rear -- not to say it does not run good.  But, a Honda could probably beat me off the line.

So, what are easy tips to get a lot of bang for the buck?  4 bbl? pretronix? heads polished?  etc?  I have no idea.

2) ALSO -- what temperature should the engine run at?  I have put in an electric fan and pressurized overflow system to help cool the car.  But, here in Florida, it still runs hot.  I have aftermarket gauges and it appears to normally run about 190 - 200.  But, if I run it on the highway at 70-75 it wil creep up to 220-230.  I am also running synthetic oil now to try to help.

this is my first time posting here and any help is appreciated.
JOHN  

First off Horesepower costs money and you can have as much as you want depending on what your willing to spend. There are some common changes that most of us make. If you want to make the 289 go without changing engines, then look at a set of heads, a cam , and a 4 barrel carb. Edelbrock sells these in kits and the parts are excellent and match well. You can achieve 300 hp in that motor with those changes. Then look at Headers and a good exhaust system, the pertronix, roller rockers, and a good fuel pump.
Your car should run normally in the 180-200 range. If its creeping up like that it probably needs a new radiator as thats the most common cause of overheat problems but it could also be the pump and stat.
Synthetic oil is fine and will lubricate at higher temperatures then standard oils, however, the latest oils have had all the heavy metals removed to meet the latest catalyst standards and these oils are hard on the old cams and tappets. There has been a lot of flat cams and ruined tappets using those oils. A better choice for these older cars is an oil like Shell Rotella-T which Walmart carries. It still has all the lubricating additives that are necessary even though its sold as a Diesel oil.  

Thanks -- perfect reply.  That is what I needed, where to start.  Yes, I would rather keep the engine.  So it sounds like heads, cam, and carb will me started.  I have a good exhaust system but it is coming through the stock header to where the new pipes start.  Again, that sounds like an easy change.

I replaced the radiator with a bigger one.  Since then we have added an electric fan and a pressurized overflow tank.

I really appreciate your note.  That will get me started.
JOHN  

You know John you can leave the factory exhaust manifold on even with the Edelbrock heads and do without headers. Headers are noisy and raise the temperature under the hood, but of course they do give you that extra hp. I am not a fan after living with them for so many years in my 68 fastback. It was gawdawful fast but you would trade some of that for civility, so think about all your options before you plink the money down. Any guy with enthusiasm can change an intake manifold or a set of heads, a cam is a little tougher but not much.  If you piecemeal them in ,,,,start with the 4 barrel,,then go to the heads and cam at the same time because you will have it all apart and those need to match. Let us know how your doing and if we can offer you more help or advice, there are plenty of guys here that have put on those parts before.  

Good advice here. The only comment I'd offer is that if you do the heads and cam and don't go with headers, you've negated some of the performance you just paid a lot of money for due to exhaust restrictions. Another alternative to headers is to use the factory HI-PO exhausts. You can pick those up for about 275 for the pair at NPD.