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Best sequence for restoration  
68fastbackdude
New User | Posts: 2 | Joined: 05/08
Posted: 05/30/08
04:21 PM

I have a 68 Fastback (63d code) that has been in my family since it was brand new.  As like so many others, it was my daily driver many years ago, but marriage and kids have taken priority over its restoration.  It is still stock and the motor/trans are still in "good" working order.  The paint and body, headliner, brakes, and suspension parts have seen better days.  I would like to start restoring the entire car but am unsure what order is best to undertake this project.  My question is, is it better to replace and upgrade items like the suspension and brakes before tackling the paint and body tasks, or better to get the shell done first and then start installing the needed replacement and rebuild parts?  Thank you for any input on this subject...  


68 fastback, 63D, C-code, C4, original &  stock

 
mjb1032
User | Posts: 147 | Joined: 12/07
Posted: 05/31/08
05:24 PM

Hi FastbackDude,
 It CAN be done either way, but it is easier to paint first to keep new parts from getting paint on them.
 The toughest part of it is; How to keep it a rolling chassis, when you need to remove
it all for painting?
On my own 68 (Coupe) I painted the rear-end, and leaf springs first, then re-installed with new bushings.
 When it comes time to paint, the trick is to cover these carefully with pastic or tin-foil.
The front end components will be tough to do this way.
(I haven't gotten there yet!)
I believe bodyshops have a way to use dollys to support a car, if they're not doing a full rotisserie restoration.  MB  


 
jlg2002
Enthusiast | Posts: 456 | Joined: 03/08
Posted: 06/02/08
11:54 AM

Mechanically, you should make sure it can stop and steers before you make it go fast. (It's a safety thing)
Although not near as fun, I'm sure your family means more to you than a paint job.  


 
soaring3
Enthusiast | Posts: 440 | Joined: 03/08
Posted: 06/04/08
11:04 AM

It really depends on what you want the end result to look like.  If you want it to look  and drive like a new car again, you will need to take out the engine, transmission and rear end so you can sand blast the undercarriage for painting.  You will also be able to refresh the engine bay as well.  Then proceed with any body work such as replacing any panels with new metal if the old is rusty.  Then shoot the body with color after extensive preparation of taking off all of the old paint down to the metal, then hit it with self etching primer then several coats of top coat and clear coat.  Then wet sand and buff.  Now that you have the body in good condition, replace all the interior parts to include the dash pad,seat covers, headliner, carpet, door and kick panels.  While you have the dash pad off, prep and spray paint the metal part of the dash.  Now, it's time for the mechanical part.  Replace all brake lines, replace the Master Cylinder and pads and shoes.  If any brake parts are scored, then replace them.  Once you have great brakes, go to work on the engine, tranny, rear end and suspension.  If you want it to act like a new car, then replace all suspension parts with new ones. The engine, tranny and rear  may just need a good cleaning and painting.  


 
JayBones
New User | Posts: 13 | Joined: 11/07
Posted: 06/10/08
09:13 AM

If you find a good painter he will know how to mask so the undercarrage wont get painted.

 


66 Pony Vert

 
soaring3
Enthusiast | Posts: 440 | Joined: 03/08
Posted: 06/10/08
06:00 PM

Actually, the bottom of the rocker panels must have some body color overspray on them in the concouse class judging, because that is how they came from the factory.  But yeah, if you want no overspray, mask it to the floor.  


 
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