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bandit66
New User
| Posts: 10
| Joined: 07/08
Posted: 08/23/08 01:27 PM
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I've seen conflicting answers (on Mustang forums,etc) regarding the questions below. I'd like to get a consenus. (66 Convertible,I6,manual drum brakes).
Which brake hardware is correct for the rear brakes? I bought the H7047 for the front and the H7048 for the rear. But wouldn't the H7047 also be for the rear since F&R brakes (66 I6 Conv) are both the same size (9 x 2 1/4)? Is my distribution block correct for my application (installing a dual master cylinder...previously single mc) on manual drum/drum brakes? http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee82/steel3rivers/66%20Mustang/connectingbrakelines.jpg
Do I need a residual pressure valve? If so, where is it installed? Where can I buy one?
How do you remove the hub from the LF & RF brake drums...so I can put on the new drums? http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee82/steel3rivers/66%20Mustang/RFdrumtopsideanglezoom.jpg http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee82/steel3rivers/66%20Mustang/RFdrumcloseup.jpg http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee82/steel3rivers/66%20Mustang/RFdruminsideview.jpg
Where can I get a backing plate gasket for the LF and RF drum brakes? Is this also required for the rear? http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee82/steel3rivers/66%20Mustang/LFgasketthatgoesbehindbackingplate.jpg
Which port on the master cylinder is for the front brake line? which one is for the rear brake line? http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee82/steel3rivers/66%20Mustang/MC67stang.jpg
Thanks
1966 MUSTANG Convertible (I6,Sprint 200,3.3L,120HP,Original owner) (C-4 Auto rebuilt,Autolite 1100 carb) (Power steering,manual drum brakes: F&R,9 x 2 1/4) (Factory single exhaust,7.25" rear,2.83 ratio,P205/75R14 tires) (White power top,Candy Apple Red exterior,Red interior).
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soaring3
Enthusiast
| Posts: 440
| Joined: 03/08
Posted: 08/23/08 02:35 PM
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You have a lot of questions don't you? I will attempt to answer a few as I am sipping on some red. You remove the hub by releasing the automatic tightening screw mechanism with a large bladed screwdriver at the bottom of the hub on the inside. Once you get the hub off, you can take off anything you want. The port for the front and back is that the front port on the MC actuates the back brakes, and the rear actuates the front. The same distribution block is used for the jelly jar and the '67 MC brake MC.
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jlg2002
Enthusiast
| Posts: 456
| Joined: 03/08
Posted: 08/25/08 12:26 PM
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If both brakes are truely 9 x 2 1/4, then the shoes are the same front and rear, (the I6's & CONV are unique with this small & wide rear brake dia 9x2/2.25 shoe combonation)
You do not need a residual pressure valve the MC by design has its own and is sufficient -IMO
Unless you have a rear seal leak, you don't need to change rear backing plate gaskets during a brake job. I've never seen gaskets for front backing plates in my automotive career(35+ years. If they exist, they must be rare.
Front drums are usually pressed onto hubs (back in the day) by securing it to a lug bolt using a special press adapter. (similar to "coining" a hole)
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bandit66
New User
| Posts: 10
| Joined: 07/08
Posted: 08/25/08 01:29 PM
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Thanks for the info guys.
1966 MUSTANG Convertible (I6,Sprint 200,3.3L,120HP,Original owner) (C-4 Auto rebuilt,Autolite 1100 carb) (Power steering,manual drum brakes: F&R,9 x 2 1/4) (Factory single exhaust,7.25" rear,2.83 ratio,P205/75R14 tires) (White power top,Candy Apple Red exterior,Red interior).
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