Instrument panel voltage regulator keeps going south

So does anyone have any ideas on why my voltage reg for the instruments keeps crapping out? You know that little one that goes on the back of your gauges. I've replaced it 3 times in as many months and at $24 a pop (I've seen as high as $76) is not cheap to keep replacing. I have a brand new painless wiring harness, I've checked the voltage going in, I have a good ground but for the life of me I can't figure out why these things keep going south. Right now the gauges kinda of work but don't read as they should, fuel tank shows half with a full tank ( I have new sender in the tank) oil pressure and temp dont read at all. Maybe I'm just getting cheap regulators. Anybody have a good source for a reliable one of these things or any ideas what the issue might be?  

You get what you pay for. spend a little more for a better unit. NPD shows 59.95 (Pn 10804-XE)for the electronic replacement model (1st choice)  

JLG is correct, he helped me solve my problem.  I ended up getting a IR from auto instruments corp, 276-647-5553, and it solved the problem, 55.00.  Gentry told me their unit is a solid state one and not the cheaper one made overseas.  Good luck.  

Ok, I'll give that a try, all the ones I had before were from scott drake, are they also consider to be cheap?  

2001,
I don't have any experience with the Scott Drake unit. Might I suggest you google for "IR problems scott drake" and see what pops up.
jlg  

Just another source, but it will take some work. Buy 102-1715-ND  (V7805-1000) from Digikey and down load data sheet (cost is only $10.00). Save one of your bad regulators for connection purposes. The input goes to +12v (pin 1), the center to chassis ground (pin 2) and connect the output (pin 3)to gauges. This is a 1 amp POL (point of load) device it can take a short all day or load and never get hot! Most of the others you are purchasing are linear regulators which get very hot without a heatsink and fail.
Steve