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rebuilding an L6  
68dreamstang
New User | Posts: 28 | Joined: 07/08
Posted: 11/30/08
10:39 PM

Well i got my engine block, crank and rods with the new .030 over pistons back and collecting everything i needed to rebuild it. When i asked about the journals they told me that all the journals looked great, actually on the high side of std. So the crank and all the journals was wearing beautifully. So i installed the main bearings and rear main tonight and installed the rings after checking the end gap and installed the pistons and rod bearings and torqued everything down to spec. this is when i put a ratchet on the end of the crank to turn her over to make sure everything was ok and i hear a clunk clunk. So at this point i know i triple checked every bearing in the block and cap and on the rods and rod caps. everything was dead on. i grabbed the crank counterweights and the crank will curn and then hit the rod bearing, maybe .020 or .030 movement in the crank before the rods move. I am thinking i need to take the rod caps off and use palstiguage to check them but im thinking that the rods were not perfectly STD size may need to go over sized with rod bearings. Im glad i checked this cause if i had not noticed this free play i would be throwing a rod and thats not a good thing after i have around 800 bucks in everything already and thats not counting the head. Anyone have any thoughts or comments that would help?  


 
jlg2002
Enthusiast | Posts: 492 | Joined: 03/08
Posted: 12/01/08
12:52 PM

There should be no play in the rod to crank journals. You need to "re-mike" the crank for rod journal size and also ask if the machine shop honed out your rod ends. It sounds like you have the wrong size rod bearing installed.  


 
68dreamstang
New User | Posts: 28 | Joined: 07/08
Posted: 12/02/08
02:19 AM

yea thats what im figuring, but that just goes to show you that even the machine shop cant be trusted because std bearings is what they said to put in and thats what i did and its not right.  


 
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