Engine compartment paint

Wandering if anyone has any suggestions on engine compartment paint. Type, sheen, single stage, etc...  I think I want to have that factory looking black, but not sure.  thanks  

Sorry, its for a 1967 mustang coupe!  

The early mustangs used a semi-gloss black lacquer. The best approximation is sold by NPD(and probably others) and carries part number AP-ECB. If you go to mustang car shows you will see a lot of guys use a gloss black , its incorrect but looks pretty good. Too glossy will overwhelm the engine though. Comes in a rattle can.  

Yea, i dont want that high gloss look, thats why i figured i would ask.  Thanks  

Lethal67, I have used and recommend PPG's DP90LF Black Epoxy. This primer has outstanding adhesion and dries with a semi gloss look. The durability of this epoxy is many times greater than the factory or any lacquer.  
Mustang enthusiast since 1973.

does it need put on to bare metal, or will it work over a etching primer?  

Which one the dp,,it is a primer. Or the Lacquer, it will work over either one. I only use a primer if I need to fill some scratches or sanding marks. I have never used the black DP but have used the regular DP primers and they are a good base.  

I media blasted my engine compartment down to bare metal,  The car is in a heated garage,  after about of week, i started getting a rust haze on it in some spots.  There isnt any moisture but i wanted to put something on the metal as a precaution.  A local paint dealer recommended a rattle can etching primer for bare metal applications.  Thats what i used.  I dont know much about paint, so i wanted to make sure whatever i use is not going to lead to any future problems, like pealing or bubling.  

Mech guy, heres another question, on each side of the car there is a shock tower.  on each side of the shock tower there are 3 bolts joining it to the aprons.   Are the heads of these bolts, Supose to be inside the engine compartment, or under the fenders?  When i got my 67, the passenger side had the bolt heads inside the compartment, and on the driverside, the nuts were showing.  Any idea how they would be from the factory?  

OK, let me explain. There are basically two types of primer. One for adhesion and corrosion resistance like an etch or epoxy (DP) series primers. Then there are primer surfacers. They are for filling minor surface imperfection. These require sanding.
Now for the bad news, rattle can etch primers are not very good for anything. Etch primer to be effective must contain an acid to etch the metal. How much acid do you think one can put inside a metal spray can before it would destroy the can. All good etch primers are a two part mix. The acid is always in a plastic container. I would recommend that you media blast the engine compartment and immediately apply two coats of the DP90LF black epoxy. Mix the first coat 2 parts DP90LF with 1 part DP401LF. Apply one wet coat. Then add about 20-25% DT870 reducer and apply a second coat. I know you will be pleased with the look and durability.

You can however apply the DP primer over the etch you have, But I feel the above is a safer better method. The bolts that hold the outer shock tower cover should be inserted from the engine compartment. So the head of the bolt is under the hood.  
Mustang enthusiast since 1973.

thats really something, because the place i got the primer from is a ppg dealer, i wanted something good, and this is what he recomended.  What do you think would most likely happen if i left the primer on?  

Well it sounds as if brabble knows what he is talking about on paint, However I dont think I concur on the look. This much primer and paint gives you a brown sauce look to the engine compartment,,, you know what I mean,,,like all the lines are smoothed over and thats not a stock look. Also there Lethal you have sprayed over a whole lot of things that have their own finishes, like the heater motor, the bolts, motor mounts and crossmember and the accelerator linkage. Also a stock mustang has red oxide primer below the bottom of the firewall. DP40 is a thick primer and while you probably will have a nice surface I dont think it will look stock,,,just my opinion, but I guess it depends on what you want.
The bolts on the shock tower are there to hold the outer spring cover not the tower itself and yes the heads should be in the engine compartment.  

Thanks alot for your suggestions guys, if you have any more, i would love to hear them!  

Epoxy primer sprayed as I have directed will yield a film thickness of about 1.5 mils dry. That’s less than the thickness of the plastic that’s on a pack of cigarettes. So, it want fill over much of anything, but maybe the blasting profile, which is a good thing.  Remember, it’s for corrosion resistance and adhesion, not for filling surface imperfection. Also, the epoxy is not made to sand. The Primer Surfacers can be applied at thickness of 4-5 Mils, this is the stuff you sand to smooth out and cover minor surface imperfections
Also, DP90 is a true black primer. It doesn’t have the brown look as suggested above. PPG does sell an etch primer in aerosol (SXA1031) it should only be used to cover small sand through areas, not like what you have. I would recommend blasting one last time, and then apply the two coats of DP. Also as mechanicalguy48 suggest, there are many items you have sprayed that require a different finish. As for the under body, use DP74LF Red Oxide Epoxy. We just finished the underbody and engine compartment of a 1967 Shelby GT350 with the above outline. I’m also in the process of doing the same to a 1965 2+2 GT. But, I need to finish welding in new shock towers before the final priming. I’ve been restoring Mustangs and other cars for 30+ years. I have used the epoxy primer on many cars with excellent results in adhesion, corrosion resistance and appearance  
Mustang enthusiast since 1973.