Any help appreciated greatly

At my wits end. 67 6cyl 200. Starts up, runs for 1-2 seconds and dies. Replaced fuel tank, sender, fuel filter, fuel pump, cleaned out lines. Carb rebuilt by a pro. New plugs.  Wires, cap, electronic ignition, and coil less than a year old. Was running fine daily, just quit and that was it. Coil resistance 2.2 ohms. Bench test on ignition module showed normal 0-12v fluctuation with magnet rotation. Had a problem with my ignition switch, it was lighting the brake warning light in the off position with the key out. Replaced the switch about a month ago. Tried a new switch yesterday, no luck. Still cuts out after a second or two. Any ideas? I'm desperate. Thanks.  

Try a 18 ga wire from the battery to the coil plus terminal. (this is AKA hotwiring) If it continues to run, it's in the ign switch run circuit. If it still dies, it could be fuel or ign. and you'll need to decide how you want to troubleshoot it. (fuel in the carb float chamber, is fuel getting thru the jets, etc...) or ign. coil and or module replacement. I think I would question the electrical side first based on my experiences.
JLG  

Thanks very much for your help. I've never hotwired before, do I connect the wire pos. battery to pos. coil and then attempt to start the car, or does that connection somehow engage the starter? Thanks again.  

see how the starter & ignition system works ?

To bypass the ignition key circuit You have to run a jumper wire from the + battery post to the + terminal on the coil.

Do you have a remote switch to crank the starter when you do this ?  
********************************************
My Name is Dennis and I approve this message !


"So that is how you shine a skunk ? "

Hello,

I know how frustrations kicks in.  I can not offer any more than what has been posted.  But since you have replaced everything on the fuel side, I would suspect the electrical system.

Milt, is very knowledge, and a good guy.

I owe him a beer or two:-))

Regards,

John  

This might seem like a stupid question but have you checked for a vacuum leak. My 65 200 did the same thing and I founf it to be a vacuum hose that had come off. Just a suggestion.  

Thanks, I'd better get or make a remote starter switch. Do I take one wire from + coil to + batt and another with a switch from the starter relay to the starter? Thanks again, sorry, never did this.  

No question is stupid as far as I know. Thanks for the input, vacuum lines all look good but maybe the vacuum advance is bad. My car used to have a good bit of hesitation at times after hot idle kicked in.  

Try disconnecting your exhaust pipe at the manifold. If you have an older muffler the baffles will sometimes collapse and you lose air flow.  

Thanks. I'll try that too. I replaced the exhaust manifold 'cause it was fouling the choke as the hot air tube was blown out on the inside and sending exhaust to the carb. Thanks for your input!  

The remote starter goes from the Positive  post of battery to S terminal of solenoid.

On this illustration substitute the jumper wire with the remote switch.

 
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My Name is Dennis and I approve this message !


"So that is how you shine a skunk ? "

Thanks very much!  

With the remote starter hooked up as the last pic shows, your coil + side still needs an independent source of 12v to take a bad ign switch out of the equation.(I think)  

So to do this test to isolate the problem, I was going to run a jumper from the coil+ to batt+ and then go s to batt on solenoid or perhaps just cranking the key to start the car and see if the batt to coil jumper keeps the car on. Sound right? This is what I think I learned here on this thread thanks to you kind people.  

yep, batt + to coil + (to energize the ign) and then crank the car, using your key or the jumper from the batt + to the relay S terminal. jlg