Coil Spring/Shock Tower removal questions...

On my 68 Coupe I'll be replacing the Right Full Frame Extension Rail and have a few questions.

In what order do I need to remove the spring assembly?

Ho do I ensure that I get everything lined-up upon installation? (up/down - right/left)  

Whatchasee - jack up the right front, better yet jack up the car and level it out front to back and side to side, to get the weight off the spring and shock. Remove the tire and everything off the spindle.  Remove the shock and then use the spring compressor to compress the spring to remove it. Pull it out and then your off to the races. Go through and take measurements from drivers rail to passenger rail at specific points along the frame; measure perpendicular and diagonally to the rails at these points and record the data. Check to make sure that the distances are very close to the same from side to side. Then you can remove the rail and begin to replace it using the measurements you made to make sure that it is lined up correctly.  

Thanks. My worry is that it's not straight now. Someone did a sloppy frame rail extension. I may also build a Jig out of a steel 2x4 and rivet the thing together.

Thanks again.  

Another question, when I put the car on jackstands so I can work on the framerails, where do I put the front jackstands?

Since I'll be replacing both Inner Floor Frame Supports as well as the Front Floor Support (the previous owner had cut this away from the Inner Front Floor Support on one side...oof~) I'm assuming I would place them under the Rockers?  

First of all, take the measurements and see if it is square or close to it. If it's really off you'll know it.  I've seen a measurement diagram out there (repair manual maybe - someone here has it I'm sure) that will give you what the measurements should be to compare to.  Second, if your taking out that much then the more jacks the better. Make your jig (2x2 would work) to contact as many good support locations like the rockers and maybe even the fire wall. Run them from side to side also. You could also put a brace across the door posts (you may want to take the doors off for extra room to work) posts for extra support to keep the body from twisting once you take away some bottom support. Tack them so the rockers don't twist and try to roll over on you. Even a little twist is going to make it difficult to get it right if they do, so tackem and grindem later. Make sure you have some support for the front that you don't take out.  Take some photos and post em so we can see your progress. Good luck!  

Got the coil springs out. I ran a 2x4 down the R-rocker and put 2 jackstands under it. The drivers side has a jackstand under the front frame rail.

Next up, the suspension.

Is there an order to which I should be removing these parts?

Do I need any special tools? (I thought that I read something about a ball-joint removal tool)

I made a jig for the engine compartment from a steel 2x4. It mounts to the engine mounts and is really only going to be helpful with keeping the frame rail square horizontally. I am worried that I won't have it square vertically.

I don't know what a door post is. Also, what are you suggesting that I tack? I am concerned about the rockers twisting as I will eventually have the Floor, floor support, torque box, and frame rail all out at the same time.  

Hey Whatchasee - U used 2x4 steel to build a jig right? Make sure that u support the body across from side to side as well not just down the rockers. I assumed u had a welder that u could spot weld the metal jig to the body to hold it secure. If you don't have a welder then use strong clamps to hold the body in place on the jig. Run a diagonal support from your jig near the motor mounts to the top of the firewall to provide vertical support. Regarding the door post - u should run a support across the inside of the car from near where the door latch striker is on the door jam to the same place on the other side of the car. Two cross supports (in an X shape) in this same area will provide vertical support across the body. Make sure that the X supports are together because if u put one at the front of the door and the other at the back you could still get twist in the body. These supports don't need to be out of 2x4 steel. One inch or even 1/2 inch will do.

Remove all the break parts first. Yes, u'll need a ball-joint fork that you can get at any parts store to dislodge the spindle from the lower and upper arms. Get a 6-pound sledge as a regular hammer will ware u out trying to dislodge the spindle.  Then take off the arms.  

I got the welder, but I haven't started learning how to use it yet. Looks like it's time to learn.

So, a big "X" from door to door, check.

The vertical jig has me confused. I made a simple "template" from the steel 2x4. It comes out as I designed it to bolt to the motormounts. It is not structural but simply is a guide for reassembly.

I am worried about the vertical realignment of the front frame rail and so want to make sure that I understand you better. Are you suggesting a piece of flat steel welded to the firewall and then to "______". Keeping in mind that I'll be removing the aprons, shock tower and frame rail.

Thanks!  

When you tack (spot weld) the jig to the body do just that. One tack on both sides of the jig to hold it. You don't want 1/2 inch welds to grind down later. If you get going and are concerned that you could be getting some movement then just add a bar or two the direction your concerned about, tacking as before.

OK, I thought you were retaining some of the front frame, thus my comment about a diagonal from the front frame rail/motor mount area to the top of the firewall to retain vertical alignment.  So tack a few vertical "L" brackets to your 2x4 jig so that they align with measured and documented points on the aprons, shock towers, and radiator support, then tack them front to back and side to side to keep them tight for a reference when reassembling.

You may even want to tack a "L" bracket from the rocker to the roof near the "X" brace to add vertical control.  It will look like a strange jungle jim after you have it welded in but it will come out quickly with a grinder and you'll be able to get the replacement parts back in much more easily!  

Thanks scott. I'll be pulling the front suspension this weekend and will start teaching myself how to weld.

I'm sure that I'll have plenty of questions soon.

Thanks again.  

You can post us a photo once you have it all tacked in so we can see how much effort it will take. There are several people here, including me, that will have to face this some day. I think it's great (cool) that your not afraid to tackle something this size! You must be like me - skilled enough to not be afraid to try something and smart enough to know when your in over your head! I'll help with whatever I can. That is the beauty of this Forum! Good luck Whatchasee. Remember to tell us how it's going.  

Oh, I'm most definately in over my head.

Smashed my thumb trying to get the lower control arm detached. I have a fork, but no clear shot with a sledge. Hitting at an angle dented the bolt (nut still fits) but I didn't want it to get worse so I stopped. Sorry, LCA ball joint.  

Now that I'm looking at things, how will I get the Lower or Upper Control Arm ball joints disconnected? There is no "striking" room  

The pins you trying to loosen are a tapered fit. Forks with air chisels are the easiest. I was never so lucky as to have access to one. The upper one will come loose if it can be horizontally struck against the vertical female end. I have disc brakes and there's just enough room above the dust shield to do it. A brake drum backing plate I don't know cause I've never done one. The natural urge is to try to knock the ball joint up and out of the spindle part but it's the wrong way. The tapered pin must be jarred horizontally straight toward the inner fender weld. It is wiggled out this way. The lower one is easier if you can support the lower arm with a small jack or blocks to stabilize it so your strikes will be more effective. It's also easier if you have an idiot/assistant hold a short solid steel bar to place in against the eye that the lower ball joint fits in while you aim at the end of what he's holding, not his hand. There's not really room, as you say, to just wale away at it. I've done this by myself years ago and I just remembered on the upper one arm my dad had an old tall jack that I was able to get up under the upper arm next to the ball joint to help stabilize it making it more solid to make the strikes more effective. I tell you this to help you understand the process. Hammering on something mounted in rubber is a losing battle. The more solid you can make what you're hammering on the better. Rent an air chisel and forget I what I've said. HaHa  

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