1967 Mustang STALLING WHEN HOT!! HELP I NEED HELP PLEASE!!!!!

I have a 67 Mustang it runs fine when cold once it gets hot it will stall when you come to a stop.Also when hot once you move it to Reverse or drive it will stall. My RPMS are at 1000 in park.I had the trans rebuilt and converter, a new intake and a new carb.4 banger.Even when it was all stock it stilled stalled out.The VAC. lines coming from the carb there are 2 one is the PCV valve the other is the timming adv.They were the only 2 that were on the old carb.All other ports have bin sealed up on the carb.The heatting VAC lines are not hooked up noe becase I have alot of leaks on the inside so I did not hook them up.I have no other ideas people said it could be the tork converter,carb,vac leaks.So far I feel like I have bin chasing my tail I'm getting dizzy HELP PLEASE  

Sandfish, its really difficult to figure out thats wrong from afar and with little information. That kind of problem can be caused by a myriad of things and your starting point is to tune it, with points,condensor, plugs and carb rebuild kit. You dont say which engine and which carb, but 1000 rpm in park is excessive and may point you to the problem. Your engine should idle cleanly well below that. Hot idle problems are usually associated with the carb, but beyond that I would need to know more.  

The car came with a aftermarket distributor. I just put a new edelbrock 600 the plugs are new. The motor is a 289.I was looking in a repair book and it said I should have a HOT IDLE COMPENSATOR WHAT IS THAT??? It goes in the same tubing as the PCV valve then to the carb.The book said it will cause the car to stall out when hot.  

Some carbs had hot idle compensators, I am not familiar with the type your talking about but the purpose of a hot idle compensator is to allow more air into the idle circuit to speed up the idle. Yeah essentially its a vacuum leak. There is typically a bimetallic strip over an orifice which opens when the strip gets hot and allows the air to bleed in. In your case I doubt thats the problem since you said it already runs at 1000 rpm in park/neutral. These are usually used on Air conditioned cars to handle the load when the car is at idle because a/c adds a load with the compressor so speeding up the idle is for that.  

What is your initial timing ? Have you set the idle mix screws properly on the edelbrock. Are you using gaskets and a spacer under the carb ?  

You could be running lean. When cold the closed choke richens up the mixture and the engine likes it. After it warms up the choke is or should be full open and the mixture is leaner for normal operation. You might need it to be at 1000 rpm idle speed to compensate for a too lean mixture and/or a vacuum leak as previously stated. Try turning your idle srews out about an 1/8 of a turn to richen the idle mixture and try to reduce your idle speed if possible to more like 750-800 in neutral to start so all your fuel is coming from the idle circuit. Also check your carb float levels to be sure they aren't too low and starving the engine when the low fuel in the bowl sloshes away from the pick-up point and starves the motor when you hit your brakes. Double check for vac leaks. Pull a manifold vacuum hose (not ported vacuum to the distributor) and place your thumb over the end while the car is running. When you release your thumb the engine will either stumble, quit or speed up. If it stumbles just a little you are about right. If it quits you are probably too lean.
What do your spark plkugs look like? White or tan?  

Oh, one more thing. Does your fuel line come in contact with youe engine anywhere between the fuel pump and carb? If so, it could be boiling the fuel in the fuel line and causing vapor lock. Also your carb may need an insulating spacer between it and the manifold so it doesn't percolate at idle. Just a thought.  

Well,
I have no spacer under the carb.The gas line is not touching the motor.The timing is at 35 fully adv. @3000 RPMS with no pinging.The car just shuts down when comming to a stop like you turned the key off.This is still acting the same way like it did with the old carb I just removed.The car then starts right back up then will stall once you move the shifter in D or R. I think the mixture is right I turned the scerws (1 at a time) in then backed out until my RPMS maxed out thats whats the instructions said to do.I will look at plugs tonight what color thay are what color should they be?I will also double check the fuel line.Could it be the distributor? It's called a flame thrower distributor.It's only does it when it's up to temp. for a bit.could something be expanding??The trans and converter(just rebuilt).The converter is still set at stock setting what that is I have no clue.The car does have AC but does not work.I looked in books and thay said it could be the dashpot. What the hell is a dashpot?I just think it's odd the new carb. is acting the same way as the old one.I would think  the Dashpot would be set in new card.I REALLY THANK YOU ALL FOR HELPING ME OUT.I will look at plugs tonight and get back to you all.Thanks again  

ok sand,,,here is what you do. Go down to the junkyard and see if you can find a spacer for your carb. Sometimes the auto parts store carries these. Then get some good thick gaskets for each side of the spacer, use those black type gaskets that are about 1/4 inch thick. Then put it together,,,reset your idle down to about 830 rpm in neutral and then reset your idle screws,,, turn them IN until the motor starts to hunt or miss a little then a quarter turn back out,,, do this on both sides. Your idle in gear should be about 600/650 rpm.  That should fix your problem but if it doesnt you can get a dashpot to mount on your carb,,,, its a little small diaphragm with a spring that hits the throttle stop and hold your idle up for a few seconds while the carb comes back to idle,,, stopping it from snapping shut so fast...its like a shock absorber in the throttle. Some carbs used them and some didnt,,I dont care for them but they do serve a purpose in keeping the throttle from snapping shut.  

What will the spacer do?I have no clue.How thick should the spacer be.  

Most of the spacers are about an inch thick, alumimium. They will increase your plenum volume, give your carb a better vacuum signal and isolate your carb from the manifold greatly decreasing the hot start problem. Your car originally came with one, I dont know where it went, but it was on there originally.  

The engine stalls when you put a load on it (put it in gear). Probably too lean.
Srock torque converter stall speed on early Mustang is 1700-1900 rpm and is fine for stock to mild cams with smooth idle. Larger cams require more stall.
Your spark plugs insulator should be light tan/gray when running right. White is too lean and sooty black is too rich.
If you are using a Pertronix Flamethrower ignition coil and Ignitor to rpelace the points in your distributor you need to bypass the original starter switch to coil  wire (pink) that has a resistor in it with a new #12 size wire that has no resistor for your system to work as it was meant to.
Still think you have an idle fuel/air mixture problem though since the car starts and runs well most of the time.  

I juat want to say thank you to al.My spark plugs are light gray.What I found was a slice in the timming adv. VAC line.I put a new hose on it and the car runs like new now NO MORE STALLING THANK GOD.Once again thank you to all that helped me out.
Sandfish9903  

I am having the same problems. I have a 390 engine, and my fuel line is close to my engine, the fuel filter is in a glass tube sits between the engine and air filter.  Is there a way to shield the fuel line from the heat???  

jake...  there are a few issues lately...

install a decent fuel injection type of fuel filter directly before the fuel pump..  in fresh fuel line..

install / stick a big magnet to the bottom of your fuel tank...    if you ever have the sending unit out.. drop some small rare earth magnets inside .. away from where the arm of the sending unit is...

this will attract the Red dUST to it.. even through the bottom of the tank...   the Red dUST is attracted to magnets..

this keeps it out of the fuel filters.. out of the fuel pump check valves and out of the carb...

look what happened when i dropped a small strong magnet into some dirty fuel from a tank...



i used my finger and pushed it across..



a speaker magnet from your next trip to the junk yard will work .. stuck to the outside bottom of the tank...


see the inside of the fuel pump..  the check valves can be held open by the corrosion coming up from the fuel tank and lines..



now that you have a magnet and fuel filter installed..      on a  COLD motor...  disconnect the positive wire at the ignition coil so NO SPARK can be created..   disconnect and extend the fuel line at the carb..   stick the end of the hose into a clear clean plastic 2 or 3 liter bottle...   while you hold the hose in the bottle and watch the pulses of fuel from the end.. have somebody crank the engine for 15 seconds..   the pulses of fuel should be equal and full pulses...  not diminishing..

this test verifies the fuel pump and the lines are able to supply a full flow of fuel...

since the filter is installed.. the fuel pump is now getting only filtered gasoline..  no more sediment..

the full flow test will usually allow enough fuel to work through the pump to clean the check valve seats..


if you have a restricted system before the fuel pump...  the suction created by the fuel pump will lower the boiling point of the fuel in the lines causing vapor lock....

if the fuel pump check valves are filled with sediment.. it won't build up enough pressure to stop the fuel from boiling in the line to the carb.. and you will have vapor lock...

the fuel pump also has to hold pressure when the engine is off..  

i have had sediment in fuel pumps.. that allowed the fuel to flow all the way back to the tank... ..not a good thing..

and i fixed it just like i described..