Dual Exhaust suggestions?

For a 1966 Coupe, 289 (rebuilt, 0.040" over, stock engine internals), original Autolite 2100, Pertronix Ignitor, stock exhaust manifolds, original 3sMT, I am looking for suggestions on dual exhaust.  Currently on it is the original (or original-style) single exhaust with transverse muffler.  I am not currently planning on converting to a 4V intake and carburetor.  

I am considering the Turbo exhaust available from most Mustang suppliers or the original dual exhaust setup with resonators.  Perhaps even the Flowmaster Delta Flow 40 series.  I would like to go with 2-1/4" pipes.  An H-pipe is a given, and original style turndown tips.  I am going to use the original style hanger kit.  Yeah, it's vanilla, but it's mine.

This is not a hot rod, nor is it a concours car.  It is my hobby, a family heirloom, a cruising car, and drive to work when it's sunny and not 100 degrees in TX.  I would like to strike a balance between free-flowing/obnoxiously loud and restrictive/super quiet.  Something to let onlookers know this isn't my grandmother's Mustang anymore, but avoid any brushes with the law for noise pollution.  I do live in the 'burbs.  Can anyone offer a description of how any of the systems listed above sound and perform?  

Thanks!  
Second owner
'66 C Code Coupe
(A Family Affair)

I tried the 3 chamber flowmasters on a '65 fastback and they sounded pretty good but mild.
I also tried the H-pipe dual exhaust with turbo muffler package from Tony Branda Shelby/Mustang parts and they are louder than the 3 chamber flow masters but still good on the street. No tickets or problems. Everybody likes the sound and you can hear it coming.... but it isn't obnoxious. I think you might like the Tony B set-up from what you say you want. I got the aluminized pipes so they'd last longer on my '66 A-code.  

I have the American Thunder Kit from Flowmaster on my 66. 2.5" pipe, H-pipe and 2 chamber mufflers. I like the sound OK but sometimes it gets annoying. What I don't like is the resonance at a certain RPMs that makes things buzz that never buzzed before. I would have went with the 3 chambered but I didn't think they would fit, too close to the axle housing to make the bend over the housing. The thing I liked about the system was it made the 347 stroker come alive over the 2" pipes and Flowmaster copycats I had. No tickets in 2 years ( for noise ).  

Cushman350. Thanks again for past tip on Justice Bros. products. I got some and it helps. I also got some of their radiator/coolant additive while I was at it and it  helps cool my car down on hot days with the A/C on. BTW: It turns the coolant from green to blue. I like the look!  

Jbirch:
Cushman350. Thanks again for past tip on Justice Bros. products. I got some and it helps. I also got some of their radiator/coolant additive while I was at it and it  helps cool my car down on hot days with the A/C on. BTW: It turns the coolant from green to blue. I like the look!

I'll have to try it. I've used Water Wetter by Redline back before the alum rad and it worked a little but it said it worked best with just it and water, no antifreeze (racing application)but also with coolant but not as efficient. I didn't like that but it may be that way for all additives. Today it was 105 here in Texas. Didn't drive the Stang.  

Was 102 here. Didn't drive my 'stang either.  

I decided on and subsequently purchased Motive Industries Turbo dual exhaust kit with hangers.  I am mid-installation and have found that I cannot get a wrench or socket on the driver's bottom nut that joins the H-pipe to the (standard) exhaust manifold stud.  It appears that the larger outlet pipe is too close to the nut.  Has anyone encountered this, or any recommended work-arounds?  Other than that, the installation is going well.  Taking my time, making sure it fits up right.  
Second owner
'66 C Code Coupe
(A Family Affair)

Is the H pipe a one piece design or two piece with joint between the two pipes?

I have Flowmaster Delta Flow 40 series two chambered and they are loud inside the car and interfere with stereo and conversation. They have a resonance at mid-low rpms that rattles things that don't usually rattle. They sound good and make good HP for a modified engine. Three chambered mufflers would be a little quieter but are a tight fit on early Mustangs getting really close to the axle housing before coming out of the muffler and up and over the axle.  

The H-pipe is exactly like the one in the link below, except it is for standard exhaust manifolds, not Hi-Po.  I fit it all up and the tail pipe clearance at the axle housing is not an issue.  We'll just have to see about resonance and rattling...

 
Second owner
'66 C Code Coupe
(A Family Affair)

Sorry, that link didn't work.  Try this one.

Mustang Monthly Dual Exhaust H-Pipe  
Second owner
'66 C Code Coupe
(A Family Affair)

The attached link shows an "H" pipe that is welded in.  That is what I have done. Then it installs in one piece and no problem with bolting it in.  The only issue is that you have to remove the unit to do any work on the clutch, transmission etc.  Am I missing something?  FYI we seem to have two threads going on this same issue.  

There are two threads on the same issue, my apologies.  I realized after I posted on this one that I should just start another since the topic shifted from general discussion to a specific issue.  
Second owner
'66 C Code Coupe
(A Family Affair)

i'm running side pipes on my 65 no h or y pipe but am gonna mount my pipes under the floorboards. just because i dont like the looks of them running along under the doors. they'll give a nice sound and are still legal.  

NO PROBLEM! I just wanted to be sure we were all on the same page.  I think I miss read your question  The problem (I think) is there isn't enough room to get a socket (or wrench) on the bolt that attach the H pipe ASSEMBLY to the stock manifold . . . if that is the problem PRIOR to install either . . . take a larger rod (or old socket) and pound the flange out so it will accept the correct socket: or take a hack saw and cut the flange (the lip that sticks up) so the socket will fit in, then you can bend it down to install and either remove or bend it back up.  Is that better?  Good luck! Mel