Suspension Upgrade and installation 66 mustang 289 - Mustang Monthly Forums at Mustang Monthly Magazine Mustang Monthly

Suspension Upgrade and installation 66 mustang 289

  
User Name:
Password:
Join FREE Now!
Forgot Password?
Forgot User Name?
Remember Me
Get Adobe Flash player
Home | Active Posts | Search | Register | Terms | FAQs
Rss
Item Posts    Sort Order

Suspension Upgrade and installation 66 mustang 289

 
ubie78 ubie78
New User | Posts: 11 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 08/26/09
07:45 PM

I am looking to upgrade the front and rear suspension on my 66 mustang 289. I am looking to basic upgrades, grab-a-track type of upgrades not coilovers because I cannot afford it yet. I would appreciate any suggestions and also tips, directions or articles on how to install them myself. I am handy with the car but have never done the suspension, I figure the hardest thing is the spring compressor and after that everything should be simple but time consuming. I would appreciate any help, Thanks  
Ubie

 
shiftthis shiftthis
User | Posts: 188 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 08/26/09
09:38 PM

for great handling on the street 620 front springs , lower upper a-arms 1" with stock arms or 1.375" with modified or aftermarket a-arms that change the ball joint angle also ones that are .75" shorter , standard koni shocks , 15/16" Stambar front adjustable sway bar , replace rubber bushing on lower a-arm with spherical bearing and use MOOG brand lower a-arms , MOOG steel lined strut rod bushings or spherical bearing kit(do not use urathane) , bump steer kit , MOOG idler arm & tie rods , RARE PARTS brand centerlink (they are froged steel not cast) if the ball pivot has slack , export brace , monte carlo bar , shock tower reinforcing kit , 165lb rear leafs with xtra half leaf , watts link or panhard bar to lower the rear roll center to hook the rear tires up (NEVER USE A REAR SWAY BAR IT WILL MAKE THE BACK END LOOOOSE !!!) , a nascar locker if you want the rear to help steer you out of the turns or TRUTRAC for neutral steer , 16:1 steering box , 2deg pos caster or 4 if you got p.s. , .5-1.5deg neg camber(experement) i run 1/32" toe in , this setup will kick azz , of course the driver has to do his part , the mods above are simple to install the hardest part is drilling the 17/32 holes for the upper a-arm. somebody else might have a different setup that works but its what you do with it and how agressive you are at driving that counts the most with a great car. the only advantage i have seen with a coil over setup is finetuning the ride heigth and i have never had a coil over car out corner me. i use stock upper and lower a-arms that have ben modified with PENSKI double adjustable shocks and 780lb springs in the front and drive on the street ! stiff but not teeth breaking !!! i use custom p.s.  

 
ubie78 ubie78
New User | Posts: 11 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 08/27/09
09:40 AM

Thanks for the Advice and Tips. Great discription on the products and how to use them. How long does it take to replace the suspension? Would you happen to have a how to link or a process on how to go about it? Or Is it it pretty much take off the parts and replace with new ones? I've replaced parts before just not the whole suspension and I want to get it right.  
Ubie

 
shiftthis shiftthis
User | Posts: 188 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 08/27/09
06:44 PM

how fast depends on how fast you are. the best thing to do is buy a 66 ford shop manual , they are on EBAY for about $30.00 and provide step by step instructions. the inportant thing is to have a torque wrench and torque ALL bolts and nuts to spec.  

 
Belmont1966 Belmont1966
New User | Posts: 29 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 09/01/09
12:28 PM

Two of the recommendations I completely agree with are 1) avoid polyurethane bushings, and 2) leave off a rear sway bar. Both of these I had added previously and then removed. You don't need a rear sway bar to improve the handling, and adding one has the potential for really making for a harsh ride (which it did in my 1966). Needless to say, the urethane "squeeks" to high heaven. You can get it to stop for a while (e.g. grease, teflon tape, etc.), but it always came back on my car and was annoying as all get out. I went back to rubber.

I also installed roller-bearing spring perches to get rid of front end squeek (the spring perch is a common noise spot). I then installed the relatively new Edelbrock IAS shocks. They go in upside down and are meant to provide a firmer ride during flat driving or turning conditions, and then automatically soften up when they are subjected to repeated joincing (e.g. bumpy road). They work, I just don't know if I like them yet.

With regard to how long it will take, give yourself the weekend if you are not familiar with the project.  

 
ubie78 ubie78
New User | Posts: 11 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 09/02/09
10:36 AM

Thanks for the advice, what kind of bushings should I use, just regular rubber or what type do you recommend? Also, I have about $450 for front and back suspension upgrade, where should I focus to replace and improve the handling, I believe my control arms are good and can still use them. I was thinking replace the bushings and ball joints, coil leaf springs and shocks and add a straight montecarlo bar. I already have a front 1in sway bar. Is there anything i'm missing or should focus on?
I also had another question, if I do the 1in Shelby drop, do I have to install coil spring  with a 1in dropor should I use a reg. coil spring?  
Ubie

 

Ford Mustang Research
Ford Mustang When looking for your next vehicle, think about the Ford Mustang, a stylish car with nice features. The Mustang gets 16 mpg in the city and 24 on the highway, and has drivers side crash test ratings of 5 stars and passengers side crash test ratings of 5 stars. You also might want to research the Ford Explorer and the Lincoln MKS.