67 manual shifter rebuild

I am in the process of rebuilding the shifter for my 67 4-sp Toploader.  The cups that are on each side of the shifter handle are not coming out.  I reviewed the Tech article on rebuilding my manual shifter, and as always it looks easier in print than in reality.  Any advice on how to remove the cups from the shifter handle to complete this rebuild?  I tried freezing the handle hoping that would loosen them up, but no luck.  
67' GT S-Code
72' Mach I

WD-40 and gently tap/pry out or rotate out. There is a small spring located behind each cup. The cups have probably glued or rusted themselves to the shifter handle and need a little persuasion to come out of there.  

Jbirch,

Thank you for the advice.  I have soaked them with a penetrating lubricant for two days and have beat on them pretty good with a thin bladed screw driver right on the outside radius.  I just received my rebuild kit today.  I am thinking about drilling into them to see if I can pry them out with a whole in the top. They are in their so solid I was almost wondering if a shifter for a different model ford had them turned into the casting.  When I bought my car someone had installed an after market Hurst shifter.  I picked this one up at a swap meet.  Do you know the part number on the mustang 4-sp shifter?  
67' GT S-Code
72' Mach I

Try gripping the outside circumference of the cups with a pair of vise grips and see if you can twist them off.
Don't recall the part number but there just weren't many early Ford shifter handles to choose from. Makes you wonder if the previous owner didn't JB weld 'em in.  

Try gripping the outside circumference of the cups with a pair of vise grips and see if you can twist them off.
Don't recall the part number but there just weren't many early Ford shifter handles to choose from. Makes you wonder if the previous owner didn't JB weld 'em in.  

Drill, use a self tapping bolt, screw in until the bolt bottoms out, keep turning until it presses itself out. If they are "glued" in keep drilling out as much material as you can, then use a prick punch and/or rotary file to piece it out. Sears has the punches pretty cheap. Very odd. Grease well going in with the new ones.  

Just as a follow-up for anyone else searching out this thread.  Come to find out the springs were not installed in the trunions and they had been hammered in as far as they could go.  We used a small torch to heat up the trunion cup enough to remove the temper from the metal and then drilled into each one.  With a little prying persuasion on the hole drilled in the top and in one the self tapping bolt idea we were able to get them removed.  Thanks to all of the advice and hopefullt this may help someone in the future.  
67' GT S-Code
72' Mach I