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Frame Rust - 68 Coupe

  
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Frame Rust - 68 Coupe

 
Whatchasee Whatchasee
New User | Posts: 32 | Joined: 03/09
Posted: 03/16/09
06:36 PM

The car has  good bit of rust and the 1st place to start my work seems to be on the frame.
The back looks OK, I was hoping to get some advice on how to fix the front. I'll try and post pictures of the left side (not yet repaired) and the right (repaired, but is it a good job?)
left...


and the right...





This last one shows the heavy piece of steel that was used as added support under the frame bracket.

If this is adequate, I'll repeat it on the drivers side.

I will be pulling the motor shortly and want to do as much of a complete job as I can.  

 
Daves6T6 Daves6T6
New User | Posts: 28 | Joined: 12/07
Posted: 03/17/09
06:05 PM

I'll start by stating the obvious, on a uni-body car those frame rails and the floor pan itself have alot to do with the stuctural integrity and safety of the car. The rusted out parts on your car are available new from many suppliers. I would consider replacing as much metal as you can with new. Of course this will be more work than just welding braces to the existing rails.  

 
Whatchasee Whatchasee
New User | Posts: 32 | Joined: 03/09
Posted: 03/17/09
06:20 PM

Dave, very few things are obvious to me with regards to this car. I want to do it right and due to budget (and present skill level), I'm willing to go very slowly. I'm still learning the names of the parts much less what and how to replace them.

So you're saying not this:



But this:


Actually, I assume that I'll need both?  

 
Daves6T6 Daves6T6
New User | Posts: 28 | Joined: 12/07
Posted: 03/17/09
07:25 PM

From what I can tell, I think you need the frame support and frame extension. This will not be a simple repair, but should be do-able. I put new floor pans in my 66 coupe with very little previous experience. One thing to keep in mind is the positioning of the rails is very important. I would consider attaching some temporary bracing to keep everything straight during the repair. Do some research on uni-body repair to see if this is something you want to take on.  

 
TARAfied1 TARAfied1
User | Posts: 50 | Joined: 07/08
Posted: 03/17/09
08:08 PM

I agree with Dave. I had the same issue with my 67. I ended up replacing the entire front end from the firewall forward. I did one side at a time. I welded up some "jigs" from scrap to line up bolt holes fop the important stuff and used a monti-carlo bar and export brace as well for reassembly. I also recomend getting the shop manual as it has the dimensions for the frame whitch are very usefull. It is a big job but if you are willing to do it right and take your time as you said, it should be within your grasp.


 
67 Hardtop 429/C6 4wheel disc brakes

 
Whatchasee Whatchasee
New User | Posts: 32 | Joined: 03/09
Posted: 03/18/09
04:55 AM

Thanks!

Tara, what is this, "I welded up some "jigs" from scrap to line up bolt holes fop the important stuff and used a monti-carlo bar and export brace as well for reassembly"

I hope to pull the motor out in a week or 2 so I can see what I have.

Also, the 1st pic. that I displayed is a piece that sits behind the one that you replaced. The piece that you replaced looks OK on my car...but I won't know until I get the motor out of the way.

Y'all are a HUGE help!

I'm looking for the "shop manuel" now.  

 
ramir423 ramir423
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 09/09
Posted: 09/07/09
09:55 AM

Hi, I have a '68 coupe and I have the same issue, my driver side extension & support rail is still in good shape butthe passenger side is badly rusted, the support rail is completely gone. I would like to redone the frames my self but I'm worried about the alignment plus I have no experience in welding. anyone knows how much would it cost me if I take the car to body shop?  

 
Toms65stang Toms65stang
User | Posts: 156 | Joined: 04/08
Posted: 09/07/09
02:37 PM

ok guys..i like that you all are taken on these projects...just remember the welding that has to be done has to be done right the first time. i've been working on my 65 for over 3 yrs now and i still question the welds even though i know they are correct. frame rails and any other support has to be perfect. ALL THAT METAL THAT WILL NEED TO BE REPLACED IS AVAILABLE FROM NPD. just do yourself a favor and dont pull out all rotted metal at once. do a piece at a time. as dave said...set up a jig and then double and triple check to make sure the care is straight and level.
i learned the hard way by cutting out all rotted metal then having a car fall apart on me. is this going to be a total restore or what...you need to have a game plan with everything you plan on doing.
if you were in the central fla area i wouldnt mind seeing what you have and i might even be able to give you some input.
ok once again..if you see a metal part rotting away...if it's a major support area it needs to be replaced  

 
Toms65stang Toms65stang
User | Posts: 156 | Joined: 04/08
Posted: 09/07/09
02:41 PM

by the way Whatchasse...that repair on the right side looks nice but ask yourself this...do you trust it.do think it will hold up going down the road and hitting bumps and potholes.
that was not a repair i would have done..the metal under that support might not actually hold up  

 

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