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another question for the engine gurus
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anfdavis
New User
| Posts: 11
| Joined: 10/09
Posted: 10/13/09 05:34 PM
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My car is a 65 with a 289, it sat for about a year before I got and got it running. It runs good when in park, when the car is put in drive and you give it gas it bogs down and dies. What can i go to eliminate this?? Clean the carb, fuel filter, new gas and that is all I know, anything else??? I checked for vaccumm leaks too and have found nothing
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Posted: 10/13/09 08:30 PM
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When a car sits for a long time, a lot of things happen. A needle and seat in the carb may be sticking, there could be water or other matter in the gasoline. The filter could be clogged.The carb will run fine with the top off if its a 2100 ford 2 barrel or 4100 four barrel(you didnt say). If it idles, take the top off of the carb while its idling and watch the needle and seat, watch gas flow into the main well and see if the main well is full of gas, also look for foreign matter in there that could clog things up. It sounds like a fuel delivery (fuel pump/filter/carb) issue so I would concentrate on those things first. Your timing could also be way off, so also get a timing light on there while its idling and with the vacuum advance plugged get it set to around 6 btdc to start off.
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Jbirch
Enthusiast
| Posts: 411
| Joined: 05/09
Posted: 10/14/09 06:43 AM
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Besides what mechanicalguy48 said make sure your choke plate isn't stuck too. That can cause your problem as well.
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anfdavis
New User
| Posts: 11
| Joined: 10/09
Posted: 10/14/09 05:07 PM
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The choke plate is actually standing straight up and down, is this the direction it should be?? i changed the fuel filters and it is definitely better but still not perfect. what can i do to get the choke plate acting right??
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Posted: 10/14/09 07:20 PM
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There should be tension on your choke plate to hold it closed when the engine is cold. If that isnt true, then first make sure your choke linkage is free and working correctly and then you may tighten your choke cap until you have sufficient tension to hold the choke plate closed. This should put the cap at about 2 notches rich or so. It should start easier and warm up better but it wont change your hot running problem.
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Jbirch
Enthusiast
| Posts: 411
| Joined: 05/09
Posted: 10/15/09 06:52 AM
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Spray your choke & choke linkage with Carb cleaner. Be sure the little piston inside the choke housing that is attached to the round spring under the round black cover is clean and moves easily. Sometimes the piston binds up in its cylinder and won't allow the spring to move much. The spring expands and contracts as it get warm/cold and moves the choke butterfly to open or closed position. There should also be a small pipe that goes from the exhaust manifild to the choke housing that supplies warm air to the piston and spring to help open your choke faster. Be sure its there and not clogged. All this stuff is basic 'cause not sure what your level of Mustang mechanical ability is. Just being safe in case. Hope this helps.
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jlg2002
Guru
| Posts: 863
| Joined: 03/08
Posted: 10/15/09 11:29 AM
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You also want to confirm that the accelerator pump is shooting a stream of gas when you mash down the throttle. Look down the carb throat with the engine not running and open the throttle plate you should see a good sized squirt of gas if not, that's your problem. You don't say if the coke is full open when COLD or just when you checked it. That could confuse the advice your getting.jlg
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anfdavis
New User
| Posts: 11
| Joined: 10/09
Posted: 10/15/09 06:26 PM
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I dont think my choke is even hooked up. Every car ive ever had in the past had electric choke, on this car if i pull the choke knob it doesnt appear to be doing anything. The car starts and runs pretty good, once the car gets gling the choke plate pretty much stands horizontally. I assume this is correct?? Once again thanks for all the help.
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Jbirch
Enthusiast
| Posts: 411
| Joined: 05/09
Posted: 10/16/09 06:19 AM
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If you have to push/pull a knob then you have a manual choke and all the previous discussions here centered around an automatic choke that worked off of engine heat rather than electricity or knobs to function. Let's go back to square one. You seem to have a manual choke that is cable operated by the driver from under the dash. This is a real simple set-up. Just make sure the cable is connected to the choke linkage on the carb. When the knob on the cable inside the car is pulled out by the driver, the choke butterfly in the carb should close (lie flat so the throat of the carb is closed or "choked" off). When the knob is pushed all the way in the choke valve inside the carb throat should be straight up and down as you look in and offer the largest opening for air to flow. This is the normal position except for cold starting. The knob and the choke butterfly should move freely back and forth as you pull push/pull the knob with just enough resistance to maintain choke position you desire.
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