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Front end alignment specs with shelby drop etc
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Ronaldo2
New User
| Posts: 4
| Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/03/09 05:57 AM
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Hello
following on from this month's alighment article, can anyone let me have the specs to give to the alighment shop for a 68 302 with shorter springs and a shelby drop and bump steer kit?
i am in the UK so, i am wondering if driving on the left will affect the specs also?
many thanks
ROn
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Jbirch
Enthusiast
| Posts: 411
| Joined: 05/09
Posted: 11/03/09 08:45 AM
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Shelby alignment specs have camber set more for track and cornering than everyday street use. Usually something NEAR zero caster and camber with about 1/8 to 3/16 inch toe-in gives you good street performance and tire wear. If for mechanical reasons you can't hold zero then go slightly off zero to about 1/2 to 1 degree max negative camber angle (makes the front tires lean in toward each other SLIGHTLY at the top) for better contact patch on corners. If you go beyond that the tires may wear too much on the inside rather than evenly.
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Ronaldo2
New User
| Posts: 4
| Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/06/09 08:34 AM
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Many thanks for your response.
looking at the car, the camber is very exagerated already so i assume (given all the other mods to the car) that it was set up for racing.
The annoying thing here is that everyone is computerised and metric and only wants to do easy (ie new!) stuff.
I'll take your receommendations with me to see what can be done at a place more sympathetic to real cars.
From your answer, driving on the left seems to have no effect on your specs?
thanks again
RDS
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Posted: 11/06/09 08:53 AM
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i roadrace and street drive my 65 and have lowered upper a-arms and set the camber -1/4 , caster +4 (+2 with manual steering) , toe 1/16 in , most all out race only cars set toe at 1/16 out but that will wear street tires out really quick and should not be used for street cars.
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Ronaldo2
New User
| Posts: 4
| Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/06/09 09:38 AM
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Yes, i meant to say it has power steering: the previous race -mad owner removed the power set up and adapted it to manual, however it was very hard to turn at parking speed (now have biger upper arms!)but very direct at speed. I dont think he put on the manual stereing adapter but used different track rod ends to usual.
I anted a more useable car in town and for show use so put back the power set up that came with the car plus new hoses etc. The alighnment went right out and the sterig wheel is no longer centred. White letter tyres are not cheap here so i dont want to weat them out unnecessarily.
I think that i will have to put a spreadsheet together with the various options listed out and see what works best.
many thanks
Ron
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Posted: 11/06/09 01:53 PM
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when i worked as a mechanic one of my specialties was front end alignment. for what you are going to be using your car for i recomend (0 camber)(+2 caster)(1/8" toe in) this will give you the best tire wear and good handling for normal use reguardless of weather or not you have shortened or lowered upper arms. have both sides set to these specs and without you in the car because unless your going to roadrace its not going to make any difference in everyday driving.
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Jbirch
Enthusiast
| Posts: 411
| Joined: 05/09
Posted: 11/06/09 11:51 PM
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Left or right hand side driving will make no difference.
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Ronaldo2
New User
| Posts: 4
| Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/07/09 04:49 PM
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many thanks for your help guys!
RDS
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