1966 Dual exhaust installation issues

I recently purchased Motive Industries Turbo dual exhaust kit with hangers for my '66 coupe (3sMT, original style clutch linkage).  I am mid-installation and have found that I cannot get a wrench or socket on the driver's side bottom nut that joins the H-pipe to the (standard) exhaust manifold stud.  It appears that the larger than stock outlet pipe (2") is too close to the nut, and the equalizer boss restricts access as well (I removed the mount).  Boy, it's a tight fit in there!  Has anyone encountered this, any recommended work-arounds?  Other than that, the installation is going well.  Taking my time, making sure it fits up right.

Any help is greatly appreciated!    
Second owner
'66 C Code Coupe
(A Family Affair)

If you can't get a socket on it, the only alternative is to use an open-end wrench or crows-foot to get it from the exterior .  

I wish it were that simple...  
Second owner
'66 C Code Coupe
(A Family Affair)

Can't get an open end or a crows foot on it either...  
Second owner
'66 C Code Coupe
(A Family Affair)

Could the pipe be heated and pushed in around the nut areas to get more room for nuts and wrenches? Once done, could your exhaust manifold bolts be removed all but one(that one left loose) to let the manifold outlet droop to get it away from the equalizer boss and allow mounting of the ex pipe, then reattach the manifold. The H pipe must not be mounted to anything else yet.  

That would be a good solution...don't have anything to heat the pipe - other than a Zippo.  I was finally able to shift the H-pipe around enough so I could (gently) tap a socket onto the nut.  Coupled with a handy wobble extension, problem solved.  

Now moving farther back: the intermediate pipes are fit up fine, at least 1" clear of the driveshaft (w/ driveshaft in its lowest position) and floor pan.  The car is on jackstands with no weight on the rear suspension.  Is it recommended to lift the rear end up to its usual position to ensure that the tail pipes clear the rear axle even though this is a 'factory original' reproduction?  I can tell in the pre-fit that it shouldn't be a problem.  I only ask because in its current position, I have lots of room to move around underneath.  Not so much when the rear end is lifted.  I think I already know the answer...

As an aside, I've read that 'all 1965 and 1966 Mustang frame rails were stamped for dual exhaust hangers...'  I can confirm that to be untrue.  Mine is not.  And it is an original 289 (2V).  And even the smallest right angle drill can't get in that space on the driver's side (unless the car is disassembled).  No worries, though, I have a plan for the hangers there...won't look original, but it will look clean and only discriminating Mustang enthusiasts will know.

Thanks all for your input.    
Second owner
'66 C Code Coupe
(A Family Affair)

I think I already know the answer...


Yes you do, put the weight of the car on the rear axles and inspect well and project as best you can the compression of the springs. My driver's side pipe is close to my brake line where it mounts to the rear axle. If I had of noticed when they were welded up, I would have moved things a little.

Better safe than sorry.  

Advice followed...fits great, sounds even better!  Now I just have to check out a little exhaust leak at that same pesky manifold/H-pipe junction.  May have to loosen all the stud nuts and reposition.  I'm hoping that's a straightforward process.  May also have to break down and loosen the manifold to head bolts to get the proper seal at the H-pipe.  I thought the donut gasket was supposed to address that...?  
Second owner
'66 C Code Coupe
(A Family Affair)