camshaft choice

any ideas for a camshaft and mild engine build combo for a 73 fastback?Using a 600 DP and edelbrock RPM manifold full length headers. i need something to get this thing going  

What engine, tranny, rear end and mods? Daily driver or weekend warrior?  

Its a 73 302 bone stock as for now ( have a set of E7 heads of a 93 302,dont know if those would be better or to use original's )c4 trans. rear gears will be 3.55 to 3.73's. and it will be a daily driver plus weekend warrior,as well as a couple of long cruises.Not to worried about gas mileage,i had thought of using an Edelbrock RPM Manifold and a 600 Holley double pump carb. full length hooker headers. I know its best to have matched components on build and looking for a few ideas to start this thing with.  

In 1998 I built a stroked 347 from a 68 std bore block ( only stock part of the build ), probe pistons ( will except up to 600 lift with TF heads, h-beam rods, roller tips, Trickflow heads, ex valve pocket work, bottoms of cylinders notched for crank, Cam Dynamics Hyd. Energizer, 512 lift, 284 ad duration, spent approx. $7500. About 375 hp. Driveable but pointless to try leaving hard in 1st and 2nd. If I were doing it today, there are some great crate motor deals out there for less.

Oh yeah, it will idle in 4th gear with no foot on the gas pedal. Like a tractor. 389 rear helps.  

I have a stock '68 302 with .030" over Kieth Black hypereutectic pistons and Ford GT-40 cast iron heads with 1.94/1.60 valves and opened up exhaust ports. Using Edelbrock Performer intake and a Holley 600 cfm vac sec electric choke carb.
A Comp Cams Xteme Energy cam and roller tip rockers are used. The cam is mild street performance with 1000-5200 rpm range with 256/268 duration and .477/.484 lift. I am using a 2.80 rear end and C-4 tranny with a kilgore 18/9% lower than stock first/second gear kit. Hot off the line and still gets about 20 mpg hwy with that set up. BTW the ignition is stock distributor with Pertronix coil and Pertronix electronic ignition that replaces the points and condenser.
I drive the car every day as a daily driver and a weekend warrior. It has great torque and power off the line all the way to 5500 rpm. Idle isn't real rumpy but sounds healthy and idles with about 15-16 inches of manifold vacuum @ around 650 rpm in gear. With your lower rear gears than I am using you could move up to the next larger Comp Cam and be good for what you want.
My combo puts out about 300HP, is very relaible, gives me great off the line acceleration, and is fun to drive without killing me at the gas pump.
My whole motor rebuild/machining and aftermarket parts ran about $3K by the time I got done and has about 15K trouble free miles on it since break-in.
Good luck and enjoy. I am.  

Thanks Jbirch sounds good,i am looking for a starting point with this one and not really sure were to begin, are you using 1.6 ratio rockers on this one?I talked to Comp Cams and they suggested a 224 duration @.050 and a valve lift of 500,and using a 2500 stall.  

Your heads and their flow chacteristics will dictate the suitable cam that will work best. Match its power range to the suitable intake. Each complimenting the other. With 500 lift, head work or aftermarkets are a must.IMO  

The cam you are talking about is the one I suggested and is one notch above the one I am using in mine. Since your rear end ratio is a tad numerically higher than mine it should be a winner.
I am using 1.6 roller tip comp cams rockers. My stall speed is a hair above stock @ about 2000-2200. Wouldn't want any lower than that with my cam.
Sounds like you have a good combo if used along with some head work or decent aftermarket heads. Make sure the heads and valve springs you use will tolerate
.500" or more lift without binding. Some won't or require extra machining. Better to know up front than after you put the engine together.  

Jbirch you said you are running a vac.sec. are you having better luck with it over the DP?  

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7__wNW8-84  

Vacuum secondaries work good and only open up when the engine needs them open.
You can adjust that to some degree with the springs kit to work best with your cam.
I dialed mine in after 2 spring changes and it works dynomite now. Its a no brainer. Just hit the gas and everything else happens automatically everytime just right.