Restoring 90 gt mustang 5.0 please help !!!

I have a 1990 mustang gt v8 5.0 front end was wrecked and looking for measurements for inner finder frame from fire wall to radiator support "not the radiator support just frame rails top and the bottom. top were finder sits on and bottom rail that the sway bar bolts up to  

but thats not how frames are measured...  they are measured index hole to index hole...

here is a frame dimension chart for 5 bucks ... 89 model mustang..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1989-FORD-MUSTANG-FRAME-DIMENSION-CHART_W0QQitemZ370329945871QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Manuals_Literature?hash=item563962870f#ht_500wt_1182



folksdog... can you describe your wiring problems ?????  that you started to on the other long dead thread...  

battery won't hold charge new battery, checked wires, checked altenater, and cut all fuseable links i could find. I don't like fuseable links anyways  

ok... is the car back together.????????  does it run????

do you have a test light .. and a digital volt meter..???  digital volt meters start at 6 bucks..


and fusible links are needed..  in most street driven applications...   its really up to you.. if you want to replace the fusible link..   install a high amp fuse..   or just wire it solid..  but if there is a short.. you may loose the car..


OK... does your car also have the PLUG IN alternator?????  with 2 plugs.. one with 2 big wires and a single small .. the rear plug with just small wires...   the large wire plugs need to be changed once in a while..  the factory versions loose grip on the little terminals in the side of the alternator..   this causes charging problems..  like you describe..

What ever you do_____________ DO NOT pull a cable off to test the alternator..   you will blow these and most alternators when you do this..  


a few tests i would like you to ***

first charge the battery for an hour on a 10 amp charger..

with the engine OFF...  unhook one cable...    hook the test light between the disconnected cable and the post it was disconnected from...   if the test light lights up you have something on in the car... so the battery will be discharged while the car sits...

if you do not have a light.. when you do this test..

hook up the battery cable...

set your volt meter to 20 volts DC scale...

start the motor....    turn on the head lights...

test between the negative battery post.. and the engine block....  you should have less than 0.04 volts...

test between the negative battery post and the body.................. you should have less than 0.02 volts..

test between the engine block and the body...                                 you should have less than 0.02 volts..


if you have more than this..   you have a bad ground...  remember. electrons flow from negative to positive..
this previous test takes less than 2 minutes to do..  including getting out the meter... its fast... it is the first thing a professional mechanic does when he runs into problems...


now.. with the meter still set at 20 volts DC...

measure across the battery positive and battery negative...

you should have  14.1 to 14.6 volts.    if the alternator is charing a fully charged battery... this test is not accurate with a discharged or partly charged battery...

POST what results you get..  

if your alternator is not charging.. and it is one of the ones with 2 sets of connectors in the side..  3G , 4G.

look at the back of the alternator..   there is an instruction to short on of the screws to ground while looking at the battery voltage with a digital volt meter..   if the voltage comes up.. the alternator is probably good.. and the voltage regulator or the wiring to it is bad... do this test for only seconds..   it should make over 15 volts in a few seconds..


there have been a LOT of problems.. with wiring to the voltage regulator...  not getting the correct signal/voltage..

what... problems to turn the alternator on.. yep... there are several different voltage regulators.. one for dashes with alternator warning lights.. a different one for digital dash boards... and a third for ones with volt meters..      there are also special voltage regulators for reduced wiring on hot rods..  self energizing voltage regulators is what they are called.