Roll Your Own Engine Test Stand

Not all of us can afford the PRW 1300111 Low Profile Racing Engine Test Stand for $1599.99 plus shipping. I bought cars for less than that. So I decided to roll my own sorta speak, (pun intended) for a fraction of the cost.

The Goal:
1. Cheap - quality metal, but I'm not gonna chrome plate it.
2. Simple - don't need the complexity of making it adjustable, I won't be tuning an LS1 any time soon.

Materials:
I decided to use 2 inch square tube, and 2 inch angle iron total cost $127.24 (casters and hardware included)... and they pre cut to length for .50 cents per cut.

Tools:
Although you can get by without a metal cut off saw, this project requires a welding machine. I know what you're thinking, well there you go a decent Lincoln or Miller MIG jobbie will run you $500 bucks. But wait I bought one for under a hundred bucks, it's a Flux Core but it will work. Justification, I already have another project that I will need it for, and now that I own one, I'm no longer limited by what projects I take on.

Optional:
Gauges, I plan on picking up some from Harbor Freight at a later time.

You may follow the build here: http://www.gregandsandy.com/302/teststand.htm







 

Wow Gregski, you're making great use of that new welder aren't you? Keep the projects coming - I'm finding them interesting (hopefully the rest of the members do also). jlg  

Dang, I envy your motivation. Unfortunately, I can now longer find it(motivation) in town anymore. Maybe I need to look online.  

G, you never cease to amaze.  

brazilianrain:
G, you never cease to amaze.

Keep talking, lol.  

great plan greg...

build it your self...

i hope you are going to leave room for the bell housing ... so you can mount a starter,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,  

I hate to say this because I will sound like one of those glossy paged car magazines, but a project like this can be done in a weekend. Provided two things:

1. First you don't have to stop what you are doing to take pictures of every single step to share with others on some forum later.

2. Second you don't choose to do it during World Cup weekend. [May not effect non European decent fabricators]

So all in all it took me about six days. Most of which were weekdays spent in the garage after work 2 to 4 hours depending on the task for that day.

I invite you to see PAGE TWO of the build, where we start out by building the motor mounts for the test stand.

http://www.gregandsandy.com/302/teststand1.htm







 

greg... why do you still have the torque converter still bolted to the back of the motor????

is it already loose???  just using it to counterweight the engine????/

it takes a 9/16" six point socket to loosen the torque converter nuts...  12 point versions just round them off...

when loosening or tightening them...   if the socket is not fully seated... don't even try it..  

new ford torque converter nuts are available at every automatic transmission parts supplier..  cheep... they are not a hardware store item... buy them in batches of 4.. as you want them all the same weight..

just in case you missed the memo...  the torque converters come out with the transmission.. and go back in with the transmission...   you have to carefully install them on the input shaft.. support the pilot hub with one hand and  spin them as you get them on to the various input and stator shaft splines... and lined up into the front pump inner gear...  if it slips out or forward while it is being lifted on the transmission jack.. you have to stop and spin it back in to verify it is fully installed...  there are so many transmission installs gone wrong where the converter has slid forward and out of place.. the installer... just tightens the bolts to mate the transmission to the block..  this breaks the front pump... or damages the pump to where it will either leak or not pump fluid at all..


oh.. and a tip.....  you will see the 7/16 head drain plug on the face of the converter... i take a 7/16 deep socket in 1/4 inch drive when i go to install the transmission on the back of the motor...  i put the flex plate opening for the drain at the bottom... with the deep socket just sitting on the plug... this lets you line up the torque converter studs so will slide right up and align without needing to get your fingers between the torque converter and the flex plate..  

The torque converter is off sir.  I will remember your tips when it comes to reassembly.
 


 

Now that I had the engine legs sorta speak, I had to give them something to stand on, so it was time to make the base. This involved bolting on the casters and building a jig out of 2x4's to hold the metal in place while I did the welding. More repetition and nothing special to write home about:

http://www.gregandsandy.com/302/teststand2.htm







 

so greg... just curious...  are you planning on bolting the bell housing to the back of the motor so you can put the starter on it.????



did the steel shop have any rectangular tube that a narrow side could be cut out and the open section slipped over the box tube you have to make some of the verticals supports  slide for adjustment ...      the open side would be retained by a pair of long bolts to stop them from flying up and to pinch it tight on the box tube when it is in proper place...

you could also use more sections to be able to attach the various other parts.. like a container for coolant..  the battery with the solenoid  the control panel...     you might want to use a bolt sticking up and through the drop over the rail channel  so you can spin a big wing nut down to hold it in place...     quick to remove...

one more thing..   you might want to find some couch coasters.. little shallow rubber cups at the hardware store to place the wheels in when you go to start it.. prevent it from rolling.. the original use if for couch legs and end table legs.. to stop them from leaving a dent in the carpet..

just ideas...     you are doing great...    

Time to put it all together and answer all those questions. Will he use the bell housing to have something to attach the stater to? Will there be any gusets? Will there be a battery tray or a gas tank?

Well check it out:

http://www.gregandsandy.com/302/teststand3.htm







 

wow... that i think is the reduced size bellhousing..... it will also have a special reduced size converter, separator  and flexplate..    

engine swappers love those... for putting big motors into tiny cars...  

Here is the final page of the build. I remove the casters and clean it with ACRYLI-CLEAN DX330 solution then paint it with Home Depot's RUST-OLEUM Painter's Touch ULTRA COVER 2x Coverage Dark Gray spray paint. It is by far the best spray paint I have used in my illustrious spray painting career, and I highly recommend it. The paint comes out nice and even in a wide strip, the top button is also comfortable so you don't need finger surgery or one of those plastic snap on triggers you swear you own but can never find in a time of need. Then I put the casters back on.

Some pictures of the engine finally in it, and even with the radiator.  The unadjustible, unfoldable, non universal, non dicing, non slicing, inexpensive engine test stand.

After I get the engine running I plan to revisit this post and provide you with an update on the Harbor Freight gauges I would like to add.


http://www.gregandsandy.com/302/teststand4.htm







 

My fuel tank used to be the red can below, but then I upgraded to this closed black tank I picked up at the swap meet for $5.00 bucks, the owner had no idea what it came off of, but it has a nipple on the bottom so it works perfect. It's kinda difficult to see (jk) but it's simply held on with WHITE zip ties, MacGyver style, ('member him?).