C4 Trans Rebuild?

Ill try to keep this fairly short. I bought a 289 that came with a c4 trans for my 66 mustang that is in the shop getting painted. The original 289 and c4 are still in the car, but I bought this because I got it for $400, and I thought why not. I have just finished rebuilding the 289, painted it, ready to put in the car. I was going to sell the trans, but now I have become very interested in rebuilding it. I have rebuilt several engines but never a trans. My idea was to rebuild the c4, bolt it to the 289, and stab both in the car when I get it back. Then take the original engine and trans and save them in my shop, maybe rebuild them years down the road for another car. My question is if this is something that I should attempt? I have read that these are fairly simple trans. What tools would I need? Has anyone tried this? I love working on things myself I just dont want to start something that I cant finish. I have also looked into buying the bad shoe video. Anyone have this video and used it? I appreciate any advice this forum may have. I may not post much but I read almost everything that is written and it has helped me a lot.

Thanks

Thanks  

there are a whole bunch of great articles spread out through the many magazines on different builds for the C4 transmission...

i have posted a few on this forum.... in the last few months.. it takes a while to sort through all the C4 corvettes to find them on a search...


here are 2 quick ones... but there are more spread out... even some over in the truck mags

How To Build A Better C4 Transmission
Dial Reliability And Performance Into Your Classic Mustang's Automatic Transmission

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0908_how_to_build_a_better_
c4_transmission/index.html

2. How To: Performance C4 Buildup
We perform a performance buildup on the Project '66 C4 transmission


http://www.mustangmonthly.com/projectbuild/mump_0203_c4_performance_transmi
ssion_buildup/index.html

http://www.customclassictrucks.com/featuredvehicles/0508cct_ford_automatic_c4_transmission/index.html

http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/drivetrain/mufp_0605_small_block_ford_performance_transmission/index.html

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0708phr_1970_ford_fairlane_c4_transmission/index.html

http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/drivetrain/mdmp_0404_ford_automatic_transmission_c4/index.html

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/m5lp_0206_closer_look_at_street_and_strip_c4_transmission/index.html


each article is slightly different...  

one thing...  find a automatic transmission parts store..  they are around...    you will need a selection of select washers... so you can set the proper clearances before you are done...  this is something that most transmission rebuilders keep in stock...   but ..i always have trouble buying at least from my local transmission parts suppliers... saying.. just buy what you need..  i never know what i am going to need until i have it all together..

and please verify the main case casting numbers AND tag numbers before ordering parts...   you will also want a valve body spring kit...  there are a bunch of different ones..  as after 45 years.. the  springs in the valve body will need to have a few replaced...  

What if not all of the casting nubers are the same. the pump has c4, and another part, I think the housing has c5 on it. Which one should I go by? Is there a good kit to buy that has everything in it that I need? I have had a lot of people talk about how they are only about $60-$80 but all of the ones I have looked at are about 150 without the torque converter.  

copy and paste the text from this thread into an email to your self.. the links will be come clickable...


not the pump.. not the tail housing...

the main casting...    

there are all kinds of variations in how many parts you buy... in a kit...

you can just buy the gasket set .. or add clutches.. seals..  sealing rings.. molded pistons.. bands... bushing sets...

you can also count the splines on the input shaft...

you will need to read the articles i posted.. but . 24/24 would be a 66 to 69 unit..   26/26 would be a 70 only... and 26/24 would be a 71 up...   internal parts do vary..

all came with a tag bolted to the side..   if the tag is still there?????  thats why i said to check the casting numbers on the main case...  C4?? . to C9??    D0 is going to be a 70 up unit..

which kit you need depends upon which parts you need to replace...  

this is a photo of the  kit from autozone..

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/atc/KS-46/image/4/  

I got the bad shoe video and watched it. Figured I was capable of doing this. I tore the trans down once, and then put it back together (mostly) just to make sure I knew what everything was and where it went. The video is great. He really shows where everything goes and what to look for. I know now whoever designed the first automatic trans is a full blown genius. I cannot even imagine how anyone can design something so mechanical and precise that works the way it does. Anyway, I tore the trans down for the second time, this time to clean and rebuild. The video mentions that bands are good to replace for an overhaul, even though mine look very good. Does anyone know of a kit that includes the bands? Also for the trans people, the first clutch pack that I took out looks like the brass bushing is split on one side. The one in the video that he rebuild does too, but he makes no mention of it. is this supposed to be there? It looks like it but I just want to make sure. I also need the rear housing bushing because mine was slightly rusted/corroded on the bottom. Where to get this?

Thanks for the replies.  

By the way, the main case casting was c5, and 24 spline input shaft.  

i ran across this article a while back... might help out.. its 4 pages of PDF file..

http://www.fordsmallblock.com/PDF/289-HiPo-C4.pdf

this web site has the best parts listing i have found... lets you know what's available..

http://transpartsonline.com/tpfile/tpcat.asp?TransPartsOnline=C4&TransPartsType=C4  

and a bump to the front...  

Oh... it worked..