good carport

thinking about getting a carport for the side of my yard. going to be used to store a car in and work on it now and then. i do have a 2 car garage but once a while i buy a car the stripe out and i am tried of taking up space in the garage. have two mustang already in them. anyone know of a company that builds a good carport. something under $500.00. 10x20  

HF... 300 bucks  10 x 20     #68772




HF  500 bucks.  13 x 20  #68771



be sure to check costco .. they also sometimes have something like these...




in some places.. you can pick up used cargo containers.. if you are careful  that you buy it from the legal owner..

attach T111 plywood to the exterior to camouflage it.   be sure to stain or paint both sides and the ends before installation..   you can also put T111 plywood doors on the front to hide the real locking cargo box doors..

use foam sheets under the T111 on the sunny side..  or the exposed side..  to protect from heat or cold..


this gives you a 8 foot wide...     20 , 28, 40, 48, 53 foot long instant garage..  depending on what you get..


i have been planning on fastening several of these together .. removing sections of the interior walls..   so i will have a 16 or 24 foot wide shop inside.. just have not gotten to it yet..

here in california.. highway contractors have been stacking these 3 high.. on 3 sides..  with a canvas roof and entry.. so they have a place to work out of the weather in some areas..  and for offices in the second and third levels..  with stairways into them..  

The Lumberyard
A couple of blond men in a pickup truck drove into a lumberyard. One of the blonde men walked in the office and said, "We need some four-by-twos."

The clerk said, "You mean two-by-fours, don't you?"

The man said, "I'll go check," and went back to the truck. He returned a minute later and said, "Yeah, I meant two-by-fours."

"All right. How long do you need them?"

The customer paused for a minute and said, "I'd better go check."

After a while, the customer returned to the office and said, "A long time. We're gonna build a house."  

I have (had) one of those #68772's over my 66 Stang in my driveway. We went out to eat during a windstorm and when we returned there was a noticable difference in the driveway. It finally dawned on us the carport was no longer there, it was upside down in the backyard.

Sure gotta anchor those suckers down.

Good joke Wayne, oughta put that one on O'Pontee's joke thread....  

68 mustang stalled out straight 6 thinking clutch safety swith maybe new tank new pump new coil sounds like its not getting gas i drove it 30 min parked and now it wont start ,,,,,4 day befire it stalled out and back fired in traffic creeping up slow off  off ramp but started great after i put in a new fuel pump now it is just sitting in the drive  

mark61:
68 mustang stalled out straight 6 thinking clutch safety swith maybe new tank new pump new coil sounds like its not getting gas i drove it 30 min parked and now it wont start ,,,,,4 day befire it stalled out and back fired in traffic creeping up slow off  off ramp but started great after i put in a new fuel pump now it is just sitting in the drive

mark....

you can start a new thread on this by logging in..  there is a tool bar to pull down to select a new forum section to post in then click the go button to take you there...

it sounds like you still have fuel pump problems if its cranking and won't start...

can you install a new fuel filter in the hose directly before the fuel pump...  use one of the fuel injection style fuel filters..



shove the hose on and use clamps.. this filter has a fine enough element that is will catch the debris that is probably causing you problems..

when there is any  Red dUST in the fuel lines left over from a previous fuel tank... it will get into the fuel pump check valves and cause it to loose the ability to pump...  

after you install the fuel filter directly before the fuel pump...

remove the fuel line at the carb...     extend the fuel line with a section of rubber fuel hose...  stick it into a clean clear plastic bottle...   this is on a COLD MOTOR....     disable the ignition by unplugging the positive side of the coil...

have somebody crank the engine for 10 to 15 seconds while you watch the fuel pulses from the end of the hose into the bottle...    as the engine cranks..  each pulse should be nice and full..   the same size as the previous..

this test MAY flush the fuel pump with clean filtered fuel and MAY remove any sediment from the fuel pump check valves..

as the fuel pump will be in full flow..   gas moving much faster than it ever has...

the fuel pump HAS to hold pressure...  or the fuel will drain all the way back to the tank... causing you a no start.. or a start and stall problem..  

I work in a body shop and we get quite a few where the car ports have blown away or collapsed, damaging the car.  Make sure you anchor it well, and don't let the snow build up on it too much.  

absolutely right...

anchor it down...

these are from harbor freight.. 20 bucks.. come with a rod to drive them into the ground..   leaving 8 inches up to anchor your canopy...   4 Piece Easy Hook® Canopy Anchor Set ITEM # 68773




these are twist in... 4 for 20 bucks...  4 Piece 15" Earth Anchor Canopy Set ITEM # 68499



at home depot... are these from  Southwest Windpower 36 in. Galvanized Augers for 30 ft. - 50 ft. towers
Model # 1-TWW-12-02   but these at HD are just over 200 bucks..

 

Wayne, the problem with my portable car port is that it sit's on a wide concrete driveway...Each leg has 3 holes for bolts (or screws). Just getting the bolts into the concrete was my issue. I know it requires a power hammer or concrete screws. I'm not much on working with concrete, everytime I try, all I manage to do is crack the driveway and cuss at it...  

absolutely....   putting holes in concrete and NOT breaking it.. . is NOT easy...

a few things..

in the last decade... or two.. there has been a tremendous amount of work done to improve concrete fasteners...

its goes like this..    drill hole with hammer drill.. and they are cheep at places like harbor freight..

use a carbide tipped concrete drill Bitt..

select the proper foundation bolting epoxy...   there are some...  that are twin cartridge systems.. there are others that are little capsules.. that you drop into the brushed out then blown with a LONG nozzle blower..    stick the piece of all thread into the drill motor chuck.. stick it into the hole and  spin it..  at a certain point.. you stop..   leave it for a  day.. then its time to bolt it down..

there are also .. . concrete threaded inserts... drill a perfect hole..  brush and blow it out..   drop this insert in..   it has a small flange to limit its depth.. drive the internal tapered pin down to spread the ends and you have a really decent concrete attachment..

you also .. since you have possibly broken the concrete area..   either drill a fairly large hole in the concrete..  if you are like other car guys and have compressed air.. a air chisel is your friend..  knock out several inches of hole.. go all the way through..  rig up some kind of digging pipe.. with a dowel to clear it out..   dig down the hole..  dig it out larger at the bottom.. than close to the surface..   stick some washers on some all thread.. lock them in place with NUTS...  you can now.. with some tape or hose... to protect the threads... leaving ONE nuts width exposed..  stick the all thread into the hole with the washer at the bottom.. fill with wet cement.. or dry with post hole mix..  position the bolt with a board over the all thread top with a single nut to hold it in place..   when it dries.. you will have a tapered cone under the concrete. with the bolt in the middle.. it will be mostly impossible for a light breeze to pull it out.. or even a medium breeze..

i have had friends do this with frame pulling chain with some grade 8 bolts through the ends..  did this to give him the ability to LOCK his cars in place..  yes.. it was deep and in the grass strip between the curb and the sidewalk..   he did have a piece of Abs drain pipe there where the chain could be dropped into and a cap shoved over it..  to keep the water and crud out of it when not in use..

there are ways to accomplish almost everything.. including.. the now available.. carbide tipped hole saws...    drill a piece of plywood or a 2x6 to use as a guide.. and a place to pour water to keep the carbide cooled while drilling..

a 2" carbide tipped hole saw blade is only 11 bucks at HD...



will this last more than one hole...  probably not..  depends upon how much water you keep applying ..  

Wayne...great info as always, THANKS!!!  

oh... i did forget....

spread the LOAD on the holes to hold it down...

there are things like malleable washers that are used in some strength applications where things can get stretched...




or add some type of steel channel.. or bar stock to the hold down.. .  if you create some patterns.. and have some kind of steel or welding  fab shop in town.. they might have an iron worker with a punch to knock holes easily into some scraps  to spread the load..