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Stalls when stopping
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Ramseyrod
New User
| Posts: 3
| Joined: 06/12
Posted: 06/10/12 01:34 PM
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Hi,
I have a 66 289 "C" series (2bbl) and she stalls when stopping at any speed whether hard braking or slowing to a stop. I think it's the carb but just checking if anyone has other ideas.
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Posted: 06/10/12 02:03 PM
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do you have Power brakes.????
the power brake booster could be going bad...
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Ramseyrod
New User
| Posts: 3
| Joined: 06/12
Posted: 06/10/12 06:11 PM
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No power brakes.
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Posted: 06/10/12 07:31 PM
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i was afraid you were going to say that..
what kind of ignition system do you have??? points or electronic????
is your battery held down so its not rocking and the positive shorting to ground as you stop??
how are your motor mounts?????
have you cleaned your battery cables lately???
have you with the battery disconnected... counted the wires on the battery side of the starter solenoid.. taken them off. wire brushed the ring terminals .. then reinstalled them.
can you check the ground connection at the engine block.. where the negative battery cable attaches.. that it is clean and tight.. on the back of the engine is a braided copper ground strap to the firewall.. just slightly to the passenger side of center.. is that properly attached and clean...
grounds are the wrong term.. on cars. the ground side is HALF the circuit..
loose the ground connection.. loose half the circuit..
if you own or can borrow a digital volt meter i have a 2 minute test to check the ground side..
engine running.. headlights on... digital volt meter set to 20 volts scale..
1. battery negative to the battery positive.. 14.1 to 14.7 volts DC
2. battery negative to the engine block.. 0.04 volts dc
3. battery negative to the body... 0.02 volts DC
4. engine block to the body.. 0.02 volts DC...
reset the meter to 2 volts scale if you get 0.00 on the last 3 tests.. and retest..
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Posted: 06/10/12 07:33 PM
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why do this 4 part test.. thats what i use to find bad grounds in 2 minutes.
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Posted: 06/11/12 12:49 AM
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Most likely the carb. Check your float level and reset your idle set screws when the engine is hot so that you know you are getting a clean idle while its running in the driveway. It certainly could be a vacuum leak and be sure to check for those. Because there can be changes from hot to cool weather this is one reason why I like to use a dashpot. The dashpot allows the throttle to return slowly(and not slam shut) and allows for an easier transition to the idle circuit, generally helps a stalling problem. Most 2 barrel 2100 carbs have provision for a dashpot but if you don't have the tab and threaded arm take it off another junkyard carb as many came from the factory with it installed.
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jlg2002
Guru
| Posts: 1394
| Joined: 03/08
Posted: 06/11/12 01:21 PM
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Like M-guy says, probably carb related. As i recall the air-pump cars needed a dashpot to slow the throttle down just a little bit to prevent excessively rich conditions on decelerations. I seem to recall reading an article in MM in the last couple of years that talked about this. If you search the tech articles you may find it.
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Ramseyrod
New User
| Posts: 3
| Joined: 06/12
Posted: 06/11/12 04:44 PM
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Thanks all. It's much appreciated.
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