car won't start with ignition key

I halve a 1968 Mustang and it won,t start with the key. I halve tried every thing and changed solenoid switch and starter. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  

When you say won't start I assume you mean the starter does not turn the engine at all--what we call a no crank/no start?

Have you pulled the ignition switch from the dash and inspected it and the wiring? The '68 has a knack for burning up the ignition wiring, not to mention the in-dash switches sometimes fail after 40 plus years...

HTH...
Mark
.  
Mark Houlahan
Technical Editor for:
-Modified Mustangs & Fords Magazine
-Mustang Monthly Magazine

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mark has brought up a major issue..  as i have had to replace several over the last few decades.

i am taking it will start when you jump the S terminal at the solenoid to positive..   yes or no..

do you have an automatic????      have you tried with your foot on the brake.. starting it in neutral.. or wiggling the shifter while you hold the key in the crank position..  warning.. get this wrong and the car can perhaps jump into drive or reverse... that is why the foot or two feet on the brake pedal ...

this is a 67 diagram.. follow the red and blue wire...  

back of the ignition switch...  to the automatic transmission neutral safety switch adaptor harness..


thru the firewall and down to the neutral safety switch..


then back up and through the firewall back inside the dash to continue the normal way through the rest of the car wiring to the starter solenoid on the inner fender...





i have had issues where the wiring on the back of the neutral safety switch fatigues where the harness is not secured to stop from flapping...





these are just places to start....  

Mark yes I have pulled the ignition switch and when i shook the wires my volt meter went to 0 and then back to 12 volts i tried shaking the wires separately to find which one would cause the volt meter to do that.  

Yes it is an automatic and when i cross the solenoid switch it will start but only with a jumper wire from the plus side of the coil to the live side of the battery  

the back of the ignition switch looks like this..





but i cannot quickly find a connector for the pin type switch...

the later version used on pickups is an LS302 from AZ and the pigtail for that is available as a wells or AZ #485 ignition switch connector...

this is the LS302



this is the 485 ignition switch connector..





i even called wells..  they don't offer the pin type connector any more.. this LS302 and 485 connector end many of the melting issues that happens..

to get the lock out.. turn left to acc..push a paper clip into the hole just slightly till you feel it touch the spring loaded pin.. push ever so slightly and turn farther left...  the key will now turn just slightly farther left and pull the lock out of the FACE of the switch and bezel.. DO NOT turn the KEY while its out..   you will be sorry if you try.  it can come apart..

now you can loosen the bezel...  and proceed with the repairs..

hope this helps....  

i will have to come back later.. as i was on a short break... and figure the pinout differences to ease the swap....  must get the overtightened crank bolt out of a camry..  i think somebody used locktite..  it won't budge..  

i took a look when i had the Chance...

the PIN OUTS are exactly the same....

in fact the switches are the same.. its just that one has PIN terminals.. and the other has modified pin terminals that hold the blade terminals....

so it should be really easy to ONE by ONE cut and splice the new connector to the harness..

please use a GOOD quality crimper .. like the Channel lock #909 pliers..  take a look at the channel lock 909 in almost any hardware store so you know what i am talking about..  

thanks everybody for the help I guess I will have to break down and buy a new ignition switch and pigtail thanks aqain.