2100/4100 carb cleaning issues for a better running carb

when rebuilding carbs..  if its an autolite, motorcraft, carter, edelbrock, rochester, holley.

what i am going to show you covers any carb.. as they all work with a similar theory..

idle circuits
idle transition
main circuits
power circuits
accelerator pump circuit..

i use 0.023 wire .. usually stainless from a mig welder..
you do have to clean the air bleeds without changing their actual size..  if the passages are blocked at all.. restricted.. you will have drivability issues.

just keep this in the back of your head next time you take your carb apart..  











 

this image shows an AFV/AVS. primary booster ..

see the wire.. thats sticking into the idle feed restriction...   the idle air bleed is out and laying on the bench...



if you have one of the AFB, AVS, TQ versions.. and you have an off idle stumble... a flat spot..  a hesitation..   please... DON'T blame the carb...  you could have a tiny piece of debris in the idle feed restriction... or the air bleed..  

the one thing on rebuilding any carb is clean, clean and clean, the smaller the carb the more important it to be clean, i never use metal to clean out jets or orfices, use tooth picks instead, they are soft and will not change the sizes at all, you can use wire and drills for the passages. then, doing all the float, linkage, and pull off adjustment carefully.  

the one thing on rebuilding any carb is clean, clean and clean, the smaller the carb the more important it to be clean, i never use metal to clean out jets or orfices, use tooth picks instead, they are soft and will not change the sizes at all, you can use wire and drills for the passages. then, doing all the float, linkage, and pull off adjustment carefully.