carb leaking at fuel filter...is there normally a gasket there?

Hello,
I have a 66 mustang 289, 2 barrel carb...stock....I did a carb rebuilt because it was leaking and it all seemed to go back together with all the new seals. Most of the old leaks have stopped, but I have noticed a small leak still between the fuel filter and the carb, where it screws in.
Is there usually a gasket in between the filter and the carb.
I bought a new hose and clamps to secure the other side of the fuel filter and that whole end is dry. I also tightened the fuel filter in as tightly as possible, but still get a slow leak. It seems like maybe there should be a seal or gasket that I might be missing?

Also, when I rebuilt the carb, as far as I know, I left all screws and adjustments as they were...with the exception of the choke because I am not sure where it was set when I took it apart. I did not know there was the looping spring inside and that this was adjustable.
It started right up and sounded good as long as I revved it, but the engine kept on dying as soon as I took my foot off the gas. It would just sputter out.
However, if I were to keep my foot on the gas for say 7 minutes and heat it up, it would stay running, although it would still seem to be on the verge of dying. I know there are a number of adjustments to be made, but want to change only the one that is effecting this and not mess with all of the others for the time being. I have directions on adjusting the levers, but I'm not sure which one I should start messing with?
I also replaced all of the spark plugs. I think I did them right, but they were tough to get back in and maybe I messed something up on this end that would make the car not continue running.
The engine seemed to run fine before I rebuilt the carb and did not have a problem with idling.

As always, thanks for the help!
M  

Yes, a gasket goes there.  It looks like a washer.

Yopur other problem may be as simple as adjusting the idle speed and/or idle mixture.  

The two idle mixture screws are at the bottom, piointing toward the front of the car.  Each affects 4 cylinders.  Turn them gently clockwise until they are closed (won't turn any more) while counting how many times you turn the screw so you will know where you started.  One does this gently because they can bee damaged if screwed down too tightly.  Open them up 2.5 turns (counterclockwise) and this is a good starting point.  It might be a tad rich but should run.  One at a time, close them (clockwise) 1/4 turn at a time until the engine loses RPM, then open them 1/4 turn or so.   You may have to open them beyond 2.5 turns to get it to run right.  I don't know.    

The idle speed screw is pretty easy to spot.  Drivers side and you will see the throttle linkage hit the bottom of it at idle.  Turning it clockwise speeds the engine up.  
Bill

1966 coupe
1995 Cobra R

just curious... are you talking about the fuel filter at the front of the carb ????

do you have a holley  or a autolite or a carter carb????

autolite/motorcraft carb filters looks like this...


this screw into the front of the autolite/motorcraft 2100/2150 carb fuel filter does NOT get a gasket as far as i know..  its tapered pipe thread...   please do not over tighten it..

i have used a very carefully applied double wrap of teflon tape.  that i put on looking at the end of the threads in the clockwise direction but starting at the SECOND thread .. so there is little chance of any of the teflon tape from getting into the fuel system. as it will create all kinds of problems..

i have also used a tiny amount of hylomar  sealant on the threads... but again a TINY amount.. so it does not get into the fuel system and really screw it up...


or the fuel filter on top of the fuel pump.. that looks like this.

 

hi there...yeah, I was talking about the fuel filter as shown in the top photograph...the autolight/motorcraft...looks exactly like that and screws into the front of the carb.
Unfortunately, I tightened that thing down as tightly as I could. I had it much looser and it leaked, so cranked it down and it leaked a lot less, but still leaked nonetheless. It's a brand new filter that I put on and it looks like it is the exact perfect on for my carb. My carb leaked before though as well; but I can't recall if it was from bad seals or also from the fuel filter. At least now the rest of the carb is non leaking; just the filter.
Is this normal then? I don't recall seeing a washer there before either....but it would seem that it should not leak from there.
Is this a common problem? Is my only other option really to put on tape or fluid onto the screw end?  

Bill, do you think you recall seeing a washer on the fuel filter screw in side? I will try to adjust that screw...I hate to adjust anything though because it was set up perefectly before and I was pretty sure that I did not adjust any screws that would effect this when replacing the gaskets.
I will slightly turn some of them though and see what happens.
Thanks...  

Bill, do you think you recall seeing a washer on the fuel filter screw in side? I will try to adjust that screw...I hate to adjust anything though because it was set up perefectly before and I was pretty sure that I did not adjust any screws that would effect this when replacing the gaskets.
I will slightly turn some of them though and see what happens.
Thanks...  

at this point.. if you have cranked it in too far and expanded the carb side of the tapered joint..

you will want to examine the face of your carb to verify you have NOT split the opening..


you might end up needing to add some kind of sealing washer in there..

there are sealing washers for drain pans.. that have a rubber ring molded to the inside of the copper or aluminum washer.. so reduced torque is needed to seal the drain pan plug to the pan..

i don't know if there are any that are CLOSE TO the proper size..



its a real big issue as we are working with GASOLINE... and any leaks in this area are very close to the COIL and the distributer cap.. where there is active arcing going on inside..

fords are well know for fuel fires under the hood.. fuel leaks from damaged screw in fuel filters.. leaking fuel hose sections..  overflowing carbs..


Have you TRIED more layers starting at the SECOND thread of teflon tape...  

I have not tried any teflon tape yet. I'm quite wary as you mentioned, about using this method...I don't want to botch it and get any in the system or cause the threads any damage or prevent it from coming off.
It just seems strange that it would leak, even though they are the right parts.
I will unscrew it, and hope that I did not do damage, but I don't think that I cracked anything.  

pick up your private message..  or post one  to me..  

I prefer PST, Pipe Sealant with Teflon for threaded fittings like this that you don't want to risk getting thread tape strings into the fuel system. Wipe some on the threads, screw the filter in, and let it set up. It should seal it fine...

HTH...
Mark
.  
Mark Houlahan
Technical Editor for:
-Modified Mustangs & Fords Magazine
-Mustang Monthly Magazine

1965 FFR Roadster 427W/TKO-600 5-speed
1966 Mustang 289-4V/C4 Auto
1968 Mustang 4.6L Three-Valve/5R55S Auto
1990 Mustang 306/AOD
2001 Ranger SuperCab 4x4 3.0L V-6/5R44E Auto
2002 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0L V-6/5R55 Auto

I've used both methods, Teflon tape and liquid pipe dope as well.  If your careful and start the tape a couple of threads back for the edge you shouldn't have any problems. I also like Marks method better however as I get wiser in my old age.
Changing that filter was standard part of every tune up I did. (course back in the late 70's they only cost $1.99)  

thanks for the responses...looks like I might try the pipe sealant first then.....are both ways easy to remove? Just want to make sure I'm not setting these connections in cement.
thanks...  

Okay, so I finally got around to some photo's. Here is the car, the carb, and where the fuel filter screws in....which does look like it has been through some issues before. The threads don't look the best on the carb and it looks like some of the side of it is scraped. I'm guessing maybe some mechanic in the past might have had the same issue and damaged the carb trying to fix it? But still, the seal looks like it is still flat and should connect securely to the fuel filter. I know the engine looks poor; but I have not rebuilt the thing...still all original...been upgrading and fixing pieces as needed. Just replaced all of the gaskets on the carb. Someday when the engine dies, it will get a rebuild, but for the moment, it sounds pretty nice. I just need to get that gas leak stopped (It has been leaking for a long time I think because it always used to smell a lot like gas when I stopped driving-not safe I know). Should I go for the pipe sealer method?

On a second problem, there is a piece that broke. It is a plastic piece that is attached to the choke plate and part of it broke off. I have no idea what it did or what it was attached to. It looked like it was a set up for a hook to attach to it. The car was running pretty much okay though once I adjusted the idle. What am I dealing with here?

Thanks for the help guys!











 

drip... drip.. drip...

the threads seem to be CLOGGED. or ripped out....



you have a few options...

the first... Take the carb back off...    take the top off.. the float out with the needle... then take the seat out of the needle and seat.. it just unscrews.. either a hex or a big wide flat screw driver..

turn the carb over.. so nothing falls into the bowl..


now.. either pick up a tubular wire brush set..


10 Piece Tube Brush Kit
at most harbor freight stores. Pittsburgh - Item # 95947
Stainless steel and brass brushes come in four sizes for a variety of cleaning applications
Availability: In stock $6.99
these tubular brushes.. you twist in.. and twist out.. it may remove some of the crud in the threads...



or run a 1/8" NPT tap carefully into the hole to NOT cut new threads.. but to clean the existing threads.. this takes care... and experience...

then.. you need to blow the passage out.. without contaminating the rest of the carb..

then EXAMINE THE TREADS again.. close up...

i have in the past.. had to carefully grind the end off the tap .. so i could get it farther into the hole without it bottoming out against the back of the hole..  this is NOT for beginners...  modifying cutting tools..

it really looks like somebody at some point CROSS THREADED the fitting or overtightened it.. pulling some of the threads...