1993 mustang convertible, top died

i had the exhaust manifold replaced , when i picked up my 1993 2.5L ford mustang convertible, the top would not move??  
did the garage do something to it to get more business from me??

1. SO FIRSt question is:  how do i fix it??  is the motor in the trunk??  could it be the hydraulic lifts low on oil??  anyway they could have accidently disconnected something under the hood that affects the top??

2. my passenger door will not unlock?? do i have to remove door panal to get to it (obviously) but what do i look for. key won't unlock it or the elec door locker either.  i have tried to pull it up with pliers while turning key to unlock and it won't budge??

ty for all your help in advance??  

JO  

#1   does the pump motor make any noise at all when you operate the switch.??


#2..  with almost all door locks starting in the early 70s...  if its LOCKED... and one of the door handles is part way pulled...   it will NOT UNLOCK no matter how hard you pull..

check that the inner and the outer handle are NOT partially off their seats..  

The top motor is accessible in the trunk, as are the raise/lower relays. You might want to check the fuse box to ensure the top switch fuse is good. There's also a fusible link that powers the raise/lower relays in the trunk at all times. You can verify those relays have power as well.

As for the door lock, it sounds like a seized actuator. I've had people break keys off in the door trying to turn them when the actuator is seized. Remove the door panel and the actuator is at the end of the door shell right beneath the latch. It's held in place by a large rivet into a plastic bracket. You should be able to pull the actuator out of the bracket and disconnect it. This way you can at least manually lock/unlock the door until you can buy a replacement actuator.

HTH...
Mark
.  
Mark Houlahan
Technical Editor for:
-Modified Mustangs & Fords Magazine
-Mustang Monthly Magazine

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thank you for you help.  the top switch kinda clicks just a little??  i tested the solonoid??  with tester it is alive.  my motor says use dexron 11  ,  but i need to find out how to put it in?? i have read if its out of oil it won;'t work, burt i don't see any leaks??  

I found the motor,  and checked the relay or solonoid with a tester it seems good,  but i will check the fuse if i can find it.  i need to figure out how to put the dex 11 in the motor??  it says to use dexron 11 to refill??  

]
i will check out the door too, thank you for your help  

lets clear some things up...  dextron ll is dextron 2..   its been replaced by a a bunch of others..

i don't know what everybody is using to refill the convertible top pumps with now..


when you operate the top switch.. does the relay click?? does the motor spin and the top not move...  

fuse 6 is probably the convertible top SWITCH and relay control power..



this is a diagram for an 88 mustang convertible..



lets look at the circuit...   from the fuse panel..  fuse 6 more than likely...  
that powers just the switch.. . allowing you to send power to the raise top relay or the lower top relay..    those get power from a wire probably attached to the starter solenoid..  with a circuit breaker probably near the starter relay if i recall correctly.. then to the pair of relays to supply power to the top motor..

i would like you if you have a digital volt meter.. to try something first.. this is easy..
notice everything is grounded..   electrons flow from NEGATIVE TO POSITIVE..   if the negative cables up near the front of the car.. get left off.. or as i usually find them .. dirty and corroded.. and at least one has all the wire strands broken on every ford i work on... look at the radiator core support.. where the little hood bumpers are  see the ground connections..

the test... takes about 2 minutes..

set digital volt meter to 20 volt DC scale..

start the engine and turn on the headlights..  

1.   test between the positive and the negative battery POSTS..   14.1 to 14.8 volts..

2.  test between the NEGATIVE battery post and the engine..  0.04 volts is expected.

3. test between the NEGATIVE battery post and the BODY...  0.02 volts is expected..

4. test between the engine block and the body.. 0.02 volts is expected..

0.00 is a bad result on these tests in most instances..

you are actually measuring the voltage drop in the wire as the electrons flow along..

the 0.04 and 0.02 are what the factory engineers looked at to design the circuits..

if you get more than these measurements then you have a bad ground connection.

just remember.. no proper ground at the front of the car..  no electrons to operate the relays or the top motor at the back of the car..

digital volt meters start at 7 bucks.. but you generally don't need to spend much over 20 bucks for a good one now a days..   try to not get one that is auto ranging..  you can get one of these are harbor freight for 25 bucks.. and i think there is there a discount coupon in the print issue..


#37772
it will last you for decades..  

I put dex in the motor it took 6 oz and may need more.  I change fuse/circuit breaker#12 on my 1993.?   Still just clicks.   No sound from motor?  Did test relay it is fine?  Anything under hood affect this?   I had work done then it didn't work?  I will try above s you suggested. Ty
Jo  

stick your test light into the black and yellow striped wire that goes into both relays..

you should have constant power...

have somebody work the top switch in both directions for a second while you observe the test light.. it should stay bright..  this shows that the black and yellow wire that comes from the front of the car is actually getting power...

if you have constant power on the black and yellow striped wire.. check the black wire coming out of the motor while somebody works the switch...  you should NOT get any bulb activity from that..

the relays and the top motor are grounded to different locations...

at this exact moment in time i don't know where fusible link C is located..  could be in the underhood circut box..  or attached to the starter solenoid.. it seems to be a black and yellow  wire all the way to the front..  

#1   does the pump motor make any noise at all when you operate the switch.??

no so do you think it's the motor??  i am having a hard time finding one for my 93 ???  any suggestions??

Read more: http://forums.mustangmonthly.com/user/02/reply/9239331/index.html#ixzz21OtoEPLV  

these pump motors do NOT die often..

use a single jumper cable to power either the RED or the YELLOW wire on the pump directly from positive..

see if the pump motor turns on..

sorry.. testing electrical circuits is complicated...

perhaps its time for some professional help..



the switch is powered from one circuit.. this operates the RELAYS...

but the RELAYs do NOT send the switch power to the pump motor..

when ONE or the OTHER relay  is activated by the switch.. it sends power from the BLACK and yellow wire to either the RED or the YELLOW wire.. NEVER BOTH...

you could still have a broken wire up front..  

Mustang vehicles uses a hydraulic pump for the top to go up and down. If it didn't move, it could be caused by the fluid level in the pump, which in most cases might be leaking. Or maybe check if there are restrictions in the hydraulic lines, loose or broken fittings or the cylinder might be damaged. You could go to an autoparts warehouse if things wouldn't turned out well or problems wouldn't be sorted even after the fluid level in the pump is filled, because the pump might be faulty.