Horns and Brake Lights Stopped Working

It appears that the horns and brake lights stopped working at the same time.  I electrically checked the horns and they honk, also checked the brake light bulbs and they are good.  Is there a common fuse?  I did check and it seems that all fuses are good.  Car was restored several years ago and stored for the last several months.  

a slight HINT at what year.. make and model..   might get you an answer..

other than that...


could be..  

Sorry about that I meant to include that info.  It is a 1967 Coupe, 6 cyl. and automatic.  I checked all of the fuses and did not see anything there.  I know the bulbs and horns work, but not with the brake switch or the steering wheel horn button.  

Sounds like a faulty turn signal switch. Brake light runs through it and horn contacts and rings. Don't overlook the brake light switch too. They are finicky sometimes. Has to be enough tolerance in the mounting bracket holes to let the pressure switch activate that's mounted on the m/c brake rod.

http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wiring/wiring1967.htm  

Is there a diagram on removing the steering hub for the 67?  It has the big impact collar in the center.  

that wiring diagram is going to be A HUGE help..

i would want to closely examine the turn signal harness...  make sure that no prior tech cut the harness to remove or install it.. i have found so many cut and twisted back together when it only takes SECONDS to DEPIN the connector body with a probe...   i always scratch the colors into the side of the connector body with my probe to ease reinstallation..

or the terminals in the connector body did not get properly latched so they are pushed back and not making contact..

i normally have to go in with a fine tip probe...  and close the open ends slightly.. so when the connectors are pushed together.. there is enough GRIP for a proper connection..

do you have power to one side of the brake light switch... and power to the other side when you depress the brake pedal..

i don't know how many fords over the years.. that i have found the brake switch harness broken inside the insulation..   the brake switch swings with the brake pedal.. so the wire flexes every time..  this is still an issue on fords into the well into the 2000 models..  i just looked and they offer replacement stop light switches with a harness.  i tried to talk a guy i know at dorman. into producing brake light switch pigtails using test lead wire. so it could flex for decades...  i used to have spools of test lead wire and would make my own repair pigtails for the stop light switches..

print the diagram under the link that says horn wiring...  you will want to use high lighter marker to colorize the 2 circuits you are working with...  

If it is the turn signal wiring, how is the steering hub (the large inpact cushion ring)removed?  Is there any diagrams of this process.  

to remove horn pad

push straight in ever so slightly.. rotate left just slightly like you were taking a tail light bulb out..

you should be able to examine the turn signal connector at the half way down the column in about 2 minutes.. look for a big splice section where people have cut and spliced the harness as they did not know how to UNPLUG the terminals from the connector body...


test for power on one side of the brake light switch.. test for power on the other side  when you depress the pedal...

the power wire to the brake light switch is green with a red stripe..

from the brake light switch to the turn signal switch connector its plain green...


 

the horn diagram



the power wire for the horns is a yellow wire from the headlight switch to the turn signal switch connector...   so .. do you have power on the yellow wire at the turn signal switch connector??

the wires to the horns is blue and yellow.... coming from the turn signal switch connector..

do you get power on the blue and yellow wire when you depress the horn button???  

this is a much later brake light switch... fits 2000 to 2005 taurus models...




the connector...