1967 HEI upgrade

I have seen serveral threads on HEI's but not finding the exact answer that I am looking for. I have owned a 1967 mustang 289for 23 years now and I just added a HEI that has the coil built into the distributor cap. I tried the relay option yesterday and it ran great the first couple of times then stopped working. I replaced the relay and it's working fine.  But now i'm concerned about this systems reliability. I am considering the idea of running directly to the ignition.My HEI has one 12 volt input. But before I do this I have a couple questions.
1.)Is the pink wire off the ignition the correct wire to use?
2.) Can I use a wire tap for this?
3.) Where exactly is the resistor in the wiring harness?
4.) Do I have to remove the resistor if I tap in before the resistor?
Thanks everyone for any input.  

got pictures of where you hooked it up..

got part numbers from the relay... some relays are not designed for the amount of current thats passing across the contacts...

some relays are also INTERMITTENT duty...  what type of relay did you use... GOT pictures???  

Sorry I can't help you but maybe you can help me on a tech ?. On the web page in red it has the tech an how to colums an I can't get it to the directions part, it always goes to thecomment section, could you try it an respone with a responce thanks a bunch.  

wlcornelius54:
Sorry I can't help you but maybe you can help me on a tech ?. On the web page in red it has the tech an how to colums an I can't get it to the directions part, it always goes to thecomment section, could you try it an respone with a responce thanks a bunch.

right click on one of the moving ads... it will open a pop up tool bar.

click on the GLOBAL SETTINGS link...  it will open in a new window...

look for the Website Storage Settings panel link.. about 6 positions down in the left frame..

click on the remove all files button.. then confirm...  this erases the stored info for flash player files.. it does NOT effect your hard drive.. other than removing the flash player ads that keep asking for processor time...

if you have a PC.. you will want to empty your temporary internet files...   these are usually in an INVISIBLE file... i have my friend a PC tech make short cuts on PCs in my family to allow family members to manually empty them...

if you have a MAC... do a find file for SYS folder... and the #sharedobjects folder the offending files are saved several folders down from those...    they will have the same names as the files you deleted with the storage settings panel delete..  

The relay came from oriley auto parts. Number stamped on it is 024001.  The contact marking are 30,85,86 and 87a.
Thanks  

The line off the ignition is red and then turns to pink after about 10 inches and the pink line which is thicker then normal wire is resistor wire. the resistor wire goes all the way to the firewall plug. If you tap into it before the pink line it is a full 12 volts and yes you can use that but you have to bring it through the firewall separately from the plug above the brake master cylinder. You can cut or leave the resistor wire in place just make sure it is isolated. I actually cut the resistor wire out by cutting in back of the firewall plug an inch or so and splicing in a regular wire. That's a little tougher to do because you have to stand on your head to do  it and the splicing of the old resistor wire stub is harder to do, but it makes your regular wire harness from the firewall plug useable to the new distributor and looks very stock.  

Thank you so much for your reply.  Though my ignition switch come straight out with a pink wire(1967). There is a red wire with a blue stripe, but my manual shows that the pink wire has the resistor in it. I just need to be sure before I tear into this.
Thanks again  

Hi Cabin,
The red-blue wire is the start signal to the starter relay so you can't use that one as a source for your relay. If you want to keep it outside of the passenger compt, I would suggest you use the green-red wire going to the Voltage reg as the activation for a relay that you direct wire to the battery side of the stater relay.

The entire pink wire is the resistor (no separate resistive device) so you have to completely jump around it to get 12 Vdc to the existing circuit (Mechguy's comment to you)  

Thanks for the input. If I tap into the pink wire as soon as it exits the ignition will I still receive a full 12 volts or should I try to to crack into the connection and solder in a 12 guage wire?  

Does the pink wire feed to anything else other than the distributor?  

print these...

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they are bigger than you can see way of to the right of the page....  

As you can see in Waynes post there the pink wire doesn't actually exit the ignition switch. The red-green wire comes off the ignition switch and then turns to pink resistor wire. The pink resistor wire goes all the way up to the firewall connector and you can bypass it by soldering or splicing in a non resistor wire in its place which will give you a full 12 volts at the coil. It only feeds the coil.  

What year mustang are you refering to? Mine is a 67 and the pink wire comes right out of the ignition switch connection.  If I tap into the pink wire as soon as it exits the switch connection would there be a noticable increase of resistance that would effect my 12 volt output? or Is it possible to crack open the ignition switch connection and solder in a direct connection?  

on the dash board layed out image...

look at the wire directly behind the cigar lighter...  it shows red green..  shows a bullet connection.. then it becomes PINK and has a overwrap as it curves out of site

how about a picture of the resistor wire thats hidden under the dash board... bypass this. and you get a full 12 volts actually closer to 14 volts at the coil +...



this is an AZ F796..  but its been discontinued..