Clutch Retracting Spring Attachment

So I removed the clutch (all involved) and now I can't remember where the retracting spring (from the release lever) attaches to the car   !  I looked at all the pictures and they just fade off where it attaches.  1966 Mustang coupe 289.  Can someone look at see what the spring is anchored to?  I hate getting old!!    Many thanks!  Mel  

end of the clutch fork... forward to somewhere around the motor mount...  

I used to have a big spring attached to the fork and forward somewhere. Then rethought it during a late model T5 conversion and now I have a small spring between the end of the fork and the short arm end of the zbar where the clutch fork rod is attached. This keeps the rod pulled in tight against the fork so it can't ever fall out. The only other spring is the one under the dash, the BIG one.


 

I was wondering about that!  But a question . . . Doesn't the spring also work as a return spring?  Thanks all!  Mel  

Comparing the wire size of the underdash spring and the fork spring, the fork spring is not rated for much assisting other than keeping the clutch rod against the fork. My combination works perfect without the long fork spring but your results could vary depending on the action of the pressure plate, zbar and clutch pedal/brake bushings. My clutch has about an inch of free play at the top and a smooth release and engagement and returns to the normal position. It engages about 1.5-2 inches off the floor. At times in our 43 years past it has acted up but always because of a failure of the parts envolved.  

i totally agree with the z bar to the clutch fork only spring position...


the only other thing i might *** as i have have lost the adjuster tip on my families 70 F250... i welded one of the jam nuts to the cone end... this way.. if the adjuster fell out.. or got knocked out.. the cone end did not fall off.. you just had to get up under there and reinsert it...  

waynep71222:
i totally agree with the z bar to the clutch fork only spring position...


the only other thing i might *** as i have have lost the adjuster tip on my families 70 F250... i welded one of the jam nuts to the cone end... this way.. if the adjuster fell out.. or got knocked out.. the cone end did not fall off.. you just had to get up under there and reinsert it...

Once when the short arm of the zbar was cracking and didn't figure out what was going on I used a crown nut or acorn nut on the pointed end of the rod to take up the slack. Repaired the zbar short arm by having a triangle of 1/4" steel plate welded to the arm and zbar pivot tube. That was 20 years ago with no failure since and the brace is almost invisible under the tube. Before this, the weld was always cracking due to heavy duty pressure plates.

 

Thanks guy's!  I'll give it a try.  FYI I also had re enforced my Z-bar.  Had some plate ground to go over the tube and then welded to the flat bar and around the tube.  It's held up for the last 25+ years with no problem, and that's with a Weber 3200 # long style pressure plate.  When I had it out this time, I taped a hole in the middle of the tube and put a zerk fitting in it so I can pump it full of grease to help with lubricating and keep any rust out.  Thanks again the short spring sounds like the ticket!   Mel