i rebuilr engine put all together and a freind hooks ground cable to starter side so may have damaged something. I then replaced - Starter, Solenoid and put new battery in and now it tries to start in on position. The switch was tocuhy before all this as it stuck at times before the rebuild? is ti the switch and how does it come out?
first... UNPLUG both small wires from the starter solenoid...that should stop the cranking...next grab your test light or circuit testerwith a friend in the drivers seat...hook the test lead clip to the negative battery... have them turn the key to the ON position... you should have power on only ONE of the 2 push on wires... that one goes on the stud marked I (i) the other one will have power only when the key is in the cranking position... not in the ON position..this wire should go on the S terminal of the starter solenoid..~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~what the wires on the starter solenoid do.the wire on the S terminal comes from the ignition switch cranking position.. but it comes out the firewall and down to the neutral safety switch where it is only allowed to continue if the transmission is in Park or Neutral... then back up through the firewall . continuing under the dash board.. through the harness around to the starter relay S terminal..the wire on the I terminal is also hooked to the ignition coil positive... under the dash.. just behind the ignition switch there is a resistance wire.. travels across inside an over jacket.. connects to the harness just before it passes through the firewall.. this reduces the ignition coil voltage so the points don't burn out.. from inside the harness .. this wire extends to the I terminal on the starter solenoid.. with the reduced voltage... ONLY during cranking.. does the I terminal contact inside the solenoid make contact with the contact disc.. this sends full battery voltage to the coil positive to give you a hotter spark for cranking....~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~things that CAN FAIL on fords... cause the car to crank when the key is in the RUN and in the crank position..#1 push on terminals installed in the wrong position at the starter solenoid... see test above..#2. wiring running down to the neutral safety has lost its insulation and shorted out to he other pair that carries power for the back up light circuit....2b.. neutral safety switch wiring harness was NOT secured to the side of the transmission .. allowed to flap in the wind under the car... fatigued the wiring and the insulation to the point of where the wires where they pass through the strain relief into the neutral safety switch are touching...3# problems with the wiring at the ignition switch...
66mustang68:i rebuilr engine put all together and a freind hooks ground cable to starter side so may have damaged something. I then replaced - Starter, Solenoid and put new battery in and now it tries to start in on position. The switch was tocuhy before all this as it stuck at times before the rebuild? is ti the switch and how does it come out?To replace the switch, you put your key it and move it to the ACC position. There is a small hole in the key cyl you insert a paper clip end into to remove the key cyl from the switch and turn CCW a little more. The dash bezel holds the switch onto the das h- you turn the switch to release the switch from the bezel. If you find after doing Waynes t/s'ing procedure you need to replace the switch, that's how you do it. Heres a adequate youtube video on how to do it.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCMLzQaiUB0
Sorry to bring up an old post, but I'm having the same issue and was wondering if you resolved it 66mustang68
i don't know if he will get your message.. but i have done some art ...do you see the half moon shaped device bottom center.. the neutral safety switchthere are 4 wire to that... 2 for the starter system.. and 2 for the back up lights..i described this test above.. when the key gets turned to the run position.. you power up the red and green wire .. but also the accessory circuit.. one or the other sends power on one wire down to the neutral safety switch for the back up light power.. so when you move the gear shift into Reverse.. the back up lights get power to them...red and blue wire from the ignition switch Start position.. only gets power when the key is in the CRANKING position.. the other contacts in the neutral safety switch only make contact in PARK and NEUTRAL... then back up to the wiring harness and over to the S terminal on the starter relay... the wires run together thru the firewall and down to the neutral safety switch and then back up and thru the firewall again... this is the neutral safety switch harness.. that runs from behind the dash board.. thru the firewall.. and then connects to the neutral safety switch harness..the red and blue plugs go on the engine side of the firewall... the individual ends are plugged into the main harness under the dashboard...do you see where the wires come out of the neutral safety switch.. then go thru a little wire clamp thats bolted to the servo piston cover.. if your wires are NOT retained.. you will end up with broken wires where they go into the side of the neutral safety switch...this is the back side of the switch... see the blue and red wires next to the other two wires.. one of the wires on the left gets power when the key is turned on.. if it shorts to one of the red and blue wires .. the engine will crank as soon as you turn the key on...follow my instructions above...man this is heck.. typing with a broken laptop keyboard.. the cat jumped up and clawed my keyboard.. its almost 300 bucks for a replacement as far as i can tell... the W and the S keys just barely work... i have to push either one several times to get it to respond..