Hi, I wonder if someone in my general area of Western Kentucky can recommend a qualified mechanic that can work on my 1966 Mustang. It was recently bought in Clarksville, TN and has a couple of issues. Main issue now is either with the ignition or some other electrical component. The key is somewhat hard to turn and when turned now nothing happens, just dead. The radio works but the horn works off and on. Now the engine won't turn over and I had the battery tested OK. The car when purchased ran ok but with a few issues. The carburetor the seller put in was a smaller carb designed for a manual shift and not automatic shift so it does not have the linkage to the transmission to downshift to a lower gear when needing to pass for example. I would like to replace it with the correct type of carb. I was also told that the engine is not the original but a 1978 V8 302CC from what our mechanic said may have been a Ford Fairlane. Not positive on that though. It runs ok but wish I had a higher horsepower engine. Last area is the transmission. It takes a few seconds for the car to go into reverse once I move the shifter to reverse. The shifter is somewhat loose and you can giggle it, it should be more stable. Just like to get this beauty (red) running well. I am new to the forum. Thanks for any help you can share. Tim
Any decent Garage should be able to figure out a no start condition, the complete starting circuit on the fords has not changed much over the years. As far as the transmission goes you have to figure what tranni is really in it, weather it has the original C4 or something newer, that may have a different kick down setup. You can check the year of the motor, from the casting number on the block , which is on the bottom of the block above the starter, it will be something like C4xx 64, D5xx which would be 75, E6xx would be 86, etc, you may also be able to find the tag on the Tranni too to figure what it is too which also use the same date coding
Just to add to Pack's comments...The shifter "wiggle" is quite common and an easy repair. It needs new shifter shaft bushings. Follow the rebuild I wrote some time ago HERE.On early Mustangs the kickdown mechanism was tied into the throttle linkage and had nothing to do with the carburetor. The '66 Mustang throttle linkage should have a downward facing rod by the driver's exhaust. The kickdown cable attaches to this rod and then to the lever on the side of the trans. See drawing:Finally, for the no start it sounds like you have a bad ignition switch. To test, turn the key to "run", ensure the car is in park and parking brake set. Under the hood use a screwdriver or jumper wire to jump the starter solenoid from the battery cable positive stud to the "S" terminal on the front (small elbow connector terminal with red/blue wire). Doing so the starter should crank the engine and with the key in run it should start. If all you get is cranking and no fire, the "run" portion of the switch may be bad as well (along with the "start" portion of it).To remove the ignition switch disconnect the battery, turn the key to "acc" and the depress the release pin through the access hole with a pick or paper clip. Turn the key past "acc" counterclockwise to remove the switch tumbler. Finally, reach up under the dash and push the switch towards you while holding the chrome bezel in the dash and rotate the switch to disconnect it from the chrome bezel.HTH...Mark.
Mark HoulahanTechnical Editor for:-Modified Mustangs & Fords Magazine-Mustang Monthly Magazine1965 FFR Roadster 427W/TKO-600 5-speed1966 Mustang 289-4V/C4 Auto1968 Mustang 4.6L Three-Valve/5R55S Auto1990 Mustang 306/AOD2002 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0L V-6/5R55 Auto