Hello I have a 1983 GT 5 speed what carburetor is a good replacement for the original 4 barrelThank You
i am taking that you have a motorcraft/holley 4 barrel on it.. with weird vents hanging out the front and back center of the float bowls.. thats a 4180 holley... they work just fine... will most tuning you could ever think of on a holley...they are different slightly from regular versions.. here is an article that you will want to go thru on the 4180...http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/mump_0907_how_to_understand_the_holley_4180/viewall.htmli have installed one on my 76 ford van.. 460... i love it.. what ever you touch.. DON'T touch the idle mixture screws.. unless you are experienced in carb adjustments... they are buried in the base plate usually behind tamper proof plugs..please describe your carb issues.. i am really good at these...i had a serious issue with the one i ended up putting on my van.. the accelerator pump lever that goes from the throttle shaft and pump cam.. to the lever thats on the accelerator pump cover ... the pivot stud wore slightly.. allowing the long lever to rock.. this delayed the transfer of motion to the short lever.. at that point i found that the accelerator pump cover was worn also.. and the short lever would move sideways when the long arm rocked... it delayed the pump shot even more.. man this thing would fall flat on its face...so i picked up another.. from the junk pile i have.. swapped parts around.. and it was cured... also.. please make sure that the bowl vent solenoids are both working... if the ground wires are left off the carb mounting studs.. the solenoids will be closed.. there is no bowl vents other than thru the solenoids.. if this happens.. the carb will run HORRIBLE.. read the article.. read it several times.. ask questions here.. i will see it and perhaps get you an answer you need.. having the LIST R- 00000-xyz number will also help.. as that describes which components the carb was assembled with.. i personally like these carbs as they have base idle mixture screws.. instead of idle mixture screws in the metering block.. this just gives you better control over the idle mixture.. and you can get better fuel economy..
some pictures of mine..i use az brand brake cleaner to clean things.. its cheep and it does not bother me..carb dip vapors gives me massive migraine headaches.. the carb dip vapors are dangerous also.. read the label before you buy any..
why setting the base idle is important to not uncover the idle transition slots too much...look at the insert images here.. the throttle is far enough closed to only pull fuel from the idle feed ports.. where it is controlled by the idle mixture screws..if you look at this image where the throttle is tipped open . you can see the fuel starting to flow from the idle transition slots... hint.. when i took my carb apart.. the idle air and main air bleeds were really really clogged.. it must have run horrible on the truck it was on.. probably the reason that it was in the junk yard...